Beer House Walking Tour (Self Guided), Cologne

In Cologne, they like to say, “Kölsch is the only language you can drink.” And in a way, that is true. Kölsch is closely tied to the city itself-a light, bright-yellow beer, slightly bitter and brewed with top-fermenting yeast. Under the Kölsch Convention, it can only be produced by breweries in Cologne and the immediate surrounding area.

Each licensed brewery has its own version of Kölsch, but the serving style is always much the same. The beer comes in a tall, narrow 200-milliliter glass called a Stange, which literally means a “pole” or “rod.” Your waiter, traditionally known as a Köbes, may carry a dozen of these glasses at once in a circular tray called a Kranz, which looks a little like a crown or wreath.

There is also an important local custom to know. When you finish your Kölsch, the Köbes may simply replace the empty glass with a full one, adding another mark to your coaster each time. If you don't want another refill, simply place the coaster over the top of your glass. That signals you’ve had enough.

A natural place to start a pub crawl in Cologne is Gaffel am Dom, right beside the Cathedral. From there, continue to Brauhaus Früh am Dom, one of the city’s best-known traditional brewhouses, where Früh Kölsch has been served since 1904, still bottled from the original wooden barrels, each holding up to 90 liters or 450 glasses of beer.

Further along, you can try Sion Kölsch at Sion Brauhaus, or stop at Brauerei zur Malzmühle for the slightly fuller, maltier Mühlen Kölsch. The Malzmühle also had some famous visitors in its history, including former German Chancellor Konrad Adenauer and US President Bill Clinton.

Other worthwhile stops include Peters Brauhaus, known for its crisp Peters Kölsch and hearty Rhineland dishes, and Sünner im Walfisch, another historic place to combine local beer with traditional Cologne food.

The best way to enjoy all this is not to rush. Take this self-guided tour to try different Kölsch beers, compare their subtle variations, order something local to eat, and let each brewpub show you its own version of Cologne’s beer culture. Prost!