Cours Honoré-d'Estienne-d'Orves (Henri Estienne d'Orves Square), Marseille

Marseille is one of the great cities of the world to walk in. Walk about in the heart of the city. There you will find a "pedestrianized" square close to the Old Port, set aside with tourists in mind. It is the cours Honore-d'Estienne-d'Orves, named for a French naval officer executed by German occupation forces in 1941. A hero of France.

In 1488 King Charles VIII established in Marseille a base for galleys of the French royal navy. Ultimately the base held a royal garrison and about 8,000 prisoners to row the galleys. Yes, that's where Jean Val Jean (Les Miserables) got his start.

When galleys went out of fashion the base was turned over to the city. Only arsenals 23 and 25 remain in the cours. They have been transformed into a library-gallery-boutique-restaurant known as "Les Asenaux".

The work of urban designer and planner Charlie Bove, the square was opened in 1989. Lined with shops, restaurants and cafes, bars, boutiques and galleries, it is a home for art festivals and fairs and an ice rink.

Among the many Mediterranean cuisines featured here is that of Provence. How about fish from the fish market of neighboring Old Port? Ah, wait! How about a traditional Provencal bouillabaisse, why not?