Ftelia Archeological Site, Mykonos

Perched just above the quiet shoreline of Ftelia Beach, the Ftelia Archaeological Site offers a glimpse into life on Mykonos long before the island became a modern travel destination. Dating back to the Neolithic period-around the 5th millennium BCE-it’s considered one of the oldest known settlements in the Cyclades. Excavations that began in 2000 have revealed multiple occupation layers, including structures and tools that speak to a self-sufficient, sea-connected community. According to legend, the site is also believed to be the burial place of Ajax the Locrian, a warrior from Homer’s Iliad.

The most prominent structure uncovered is the Megaron, a large rectangular building situated on a hill and oriented north to south. Its stone walls still rise about 1.4 meters high and are thought to have played a central role in the settlement’s social or religious life. Archaeologists also found layers of pottery-from plain early vases to later painted and decorated vessels-alongside obsidian tools likely used for fishing, hunting, and basic defense. Although time has eroded much of the site, three of its four structural layers remain visible.

The Ftelia site spans a little over an acre, and while modest in size, it delivers outsized historical value. The worn stones and fragments evoke a time when this hillside buzzed with daily life-crafting, cooking, and ceremony.

Before leaving the area, visitors can step down to Ftelia Beach for a contrasting experience: quiet waves, soft sand, and a moment to reflect on how far back Mykonos's story really goes.