La Vieille Charité (Vieille Charité Center), Marseille

Vieille Charité Center, built between 1671 and 1749, was originally an almshouse and now serves as a museum and cultural center. The main structure is a large rectangular complex constructed of pink and yellow-tinted molasse stone. Its austere exterior, with no outward-facing windows, encloses three levels of arcaded galleries overlooking a peaceful inner courtyard. At the center stands a magnificent Baroque chapel designed by Pierre Puget, featuring a circular plan, an ellipsoidal dome, and a portico supported by Corinthian columns.

In the 17th century, France’s harsh policy toward the poor included the use of “beggar-hunters” to capture vagrants. Non-residents were expelled from Marseille, while locals were confined in almshouses such as this one, which functioned as workhouses. Those interned — including children — were put to work as servants, apprentices, or cabin boys.

Over the centuries, the building’s purpose shifted repeatedly. In the 19th century, it served as barracks for the French Foreign Legion until 1922, and later provided shelter for displaced families after urban demolitions behind the Bourse building and the bombing of the Old Port during World War II. After years of neglect and squatting, the building underwent a major restoration under the supervision of the French Ministry of Culture.

Today, it houses the Museum of Mediterranean Archaeology, the Museum of African, Oceanic and Amerindian Arts, and spaces for temporary exhibitions, research, and cultural events. Visitors can enjoy the serene courtyard, admire Puget’s architectural masterpiece, and relax at the on-site café.