University Church of Saint Mary the Virgin, Oxford (must see)

The University Church of Saint Mary the Virgin is the largest parish church in the city. Located on High Street and surrounded by colleges, it has long been closely connected to university life. A church has occupied this site for more than a thousand years, with the first known building dating to 1086. When the University of Oxford emerged in the 13th century, the church effectively became its first building, serving as a centre for lectures, meetings, ceremonies, and academic gatherings before dedicated university structures existed.

In 1320, a two-storey building was added to the north side of the chancel. The lower floor served as the university’s Convocation House, while the upper level became Oxford’s first library. The church continued to play a formal role in university life into the 17th century, when graduation ceremonies were still held here. Eventually, church officials grew frustrated with the lively celebrations that followed, leading to the construction of the nearby Sheldonian Theatre as a dedicated ceremonial venue.

Much of the church was rebuilt between the late 15th and early 16th centuries in the Perpendicular Gothic style, although its 13th-century tower and spire survived unchanged. The graceful steeple is often described as one of the most beautiful in England. The central architectural highlight is the Baroque porch on the south side of the church facing High Street. To find this feature, stand outside the main entrance and look for the ornate 1637 gateway, along with the distinctive twisting “barley-sugar” columns and the statue of the Virgin and Child added long after the medieval nave was completed.

Inside, visitors can admire the richly detailed interior, stained glass, and memorials. The church also carries traces of the Reformation: in 1555, the Oxford Martyrs were tried and condemned here, and a missing section of pillar near the pulpit remains a relic of this turbulent period. To find the “Cranmer Pillar,” walk toward the front of the nave near the pulpit and look for the distinct indentation cut into the stone where a wooden platform once located. Thomas Cranmer stood on this platform during his trial, where he publicly withdrew his recantation before being led to his execution.

For many visitors, the final highlight is the tower climb, which rewards them with sweeping views over Oxford’s rooftops. To reach the tower, enter near the church shop and climb the 127 steps of the narrow 13th-century spiral staircase. From the open-air observation deck, look for the nearby Radcliffe Camera and the city’s famous skyline of spires. Alongside these historic features, the church remains an active place of worship.