Spending Time in Koprivshtitsa, Bulgaria’s Revival-Era Gem!, Koprivshtitsa, Bulgaria

Leaving Sofia behind in the morning, the drive east takes you past rolling fields and forests that grow denser the higher you climb. Villages flicker by, each with its whitewashed church and red-tiled roofs. By the time you reach Koprivshtitsa, the air feels noticeably cooler, scented with pine, hay, and woodsmoke. The town sits tucked in a valley surrounded by thick forested hills, its cobbled lanes winding through clusters of beautifully preserved houses. It feels like stepping back a century and a half, into a Bulgaria of merchants, poets, and revolutionaries.

With just a few hours to spare, I began at the Oslekov House. Inside, every surface seems alive: carved ceilings, painted panels, even the beams shimmer with color. The rooms tell of a wealthy merchant’s life, yet there’s warmth amid the opulence—the smell of old timber, the soft creak of the floors, the filtered light through embroidered curtains. A short walk uphill brought me to the Lyutov House, smaller but full of personality. Its frescoes bloom with floral motifs, and delicate patterns climb up the walls like vines. Standing there, it’s easy to imagine the rhythm of family life a century ago. ...... (follow the instructions below for accessing the rest of this article).