Al-Attarine Madrasa (School of the Perfumers), Fes (must see)

At first glance, Al-Attarine Madrasa might feel like it’s doing a lot—and it is. Among Fes’s medieval colleges, this one shows off an almost dizzying range of patterns. Zellij tiles, carved wood, and sculpted stucco compete for attention, yet somehow never get in each other’s way. The result is rich but controlled, decorative without being heavy-handed.

Finished in 1325, it ranks among the city’s earliest madrasas, and its sense of lightness comes from a clever structural trick: pairs of perfectly balanced arches guiding the weight down through marble columns into a single supporting lintel. Elegant and quietly confident.

Before moving any further, slow down at the entrance hall. This is where the madrasa really flexes. Many consider this the most intricate zellij work in Fes, and it’s not hard to see why. The circular layout pulls you in, weaving pentagons and five-pointed stars into an interlocking puzzle that seems to spin the longer you look.

This isn’t decoration for decoration’s sake. Scholars point out that the patterns radiate from a single center, a visual way of expressing the idea of divine unity—one point, many forms. It’s geometry doing theology, without saying a word.

Above, the first floor once housed more than 60 student cells. For centuries, this madrasa functioned as an academic extension of Kairaouine Mosque and its university, a role it kept until the 1950s. Students lived, studied, and debated here, surrounded by some of the finest craftsmanship the city could offer—hardly a bad study environment.

And if luck is on your side and access is allowed, make your way up to the rooftop. From there, you’ll be rewarded with one of the clearest, most complete views of the Kairaouine Mosque, a perspective that neatly ties this quiet scholarly space back to the wider intellectual heart of Fes.