Dar Batha Museum, Fes

Before you dive headfirst into the controlled chaos of the Medina, give yourself a moment of calm at Dar Batha Museum, set inside the former Dar Batha Palace, just south of the Blue Gate. This late-19th-century palace was commissioned in 1873 by Moulay el-Hassan, the Sultan of Morocco, who needed a residence polished enough for official receptions—and who clearly had good taste.

The result is classic Moorish elegance: a generous tiled courtyard anchored by a large fountain and framed by arcades that still know how to make an entrance. Beyond it lies an Andalusian garden that feels like the Medina’s volume knob has been turned way down.

The palace took on a new role in the early 20th century. In 1914, the French scholar Alfred Bel made the first donation toward what would become an ethnographic museum, and by the following year, Dar Batha had officially reinvented itself as the Museum of Moroccan Arts and Crafts. The building didn’t just adapt to this new life—it leaned into it. The collection is split into two main sections: one dedicated to archaeology; the other to ethnography, offering a broad look at the artistic traditions of Fes and the surrounding regions.

Inside, expect a rich mix rather than a single theme. Ceramics, textiles, jewelry, paintings, carved wooden doors, everyday household items, and even genealogical records—all share the space. One particularly rewarding section traces the evolution of architecture in Fes, moving from the Idrissid period through to the Alaouite era, and quietly explaining why the city looks the way it does today. There’s also an on-site working workshop, where visitors can watch woodcarvers practicing skills that have been passed down for generations—no labels required to understand the precision.

And one final suggestion before you move on: every now and then, stop looking at the displays and look up. The ceilings here are doing just as much storytelling as the objects below, and they’re easy to miss if you’re in a hurry...