Grgur Ninski Statue, Split (must see)

Just outside Split’s ancient Golden Gate stands a figure as bold in bronze as he once was in life. Meet Grgur Ninski (or Gregory of Nin): the 10th-century bishop whose raised hand still seems to call for change—and whose famously polished big toe might just bring you luck.

In 926 AD, Bishop Gregory did the unthinkable for his time: he began preaching and conducting services in Croatian rather than Latin. This wasn’t just a liturgical choice; it was an act of defiance against church tradition and Rome’s authority. For ordinary people across Dalmatia who spoke no Latin, it meant finally hearing prayers and sermons in words they understood. Over time, Grgur became more than a bishop—he became a national symbol of cultural identity and the right to speak one’s own language.

The statue you see today is the work of renowned Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović, completed in 1929. Towering at nearly 28 feet, Grgur’s figure is dramatic and commanding, his finger pointing skyward as if frozen mid-sermon. Originally, this monumental piece stood within the walls of Diocletian’s Palace. But during World War II, occupying Italian forces removed it. In 1954, it found its new and permanent home near the Golden Gate, where it welcomes both locals and travelers.

Did you know? Almost everything about the statue is dark bronze, except that famous toe. Generations of locals, travelers, and pilgrims have polished it to a golden gleam, each hoping for a wish to come true or a bit of luck to take home.

So when you visit, don’t just snap a photo. Pause, look up at Gregory’s determined gaze, and give that big toe a gentle rub. Because in Split, a little faith and a bit of bronze can still work wonders.