Indra Chowk and Akash Bhairab Temple, Kathmandu

Indra Chowk is one of Kathmandu’s oldest and liveliest market squares. Named after Indra, lord of heaven in Hindu mythology, it has long served as a vibrant commercial crossroads. Today, its shops and stalls overflow with spices, textiles, beads, jewelry, ornaments, produce, and religious items.

The main architectural anchor standing directly on the square is the Akash Bhairab Temple. It is easily recognized by the gilded guardian figures seated above its entrance balcony. From the street market below, trace the first-floor ledge of the temple's western facade to identify the four metal lions rearing out over the open plaza.

Close to the lions on the Akash Bhairab Temple sits the large head of Akash Bhairab, the “God of the Sky,” displayed on the upper level. The masterpiece is placed into the middle open window of the same second-floor balcony frame. What you'll get to see is the large, blue-faced mask of Akash Bhairab, which is beautifully adorned with piercing silver eyes and an intricate crown. According to tradition, the temple may have once been the palace of King Yalambar, regarded as the first king of Nepal, whose spirit is believed to reside in the deity’s head.

Indra Chowk becomes especially animated during the Yenya, or Indra Jatra, festival each September. During this celebration, the head of Akash Bhairab is ceremonially displayed and blessed by the Living Goddess Kumari. Crowds of worshippers gather with offerings of flowers, money, and food.

For a change of vibe, the last highlight is Pote Bazaar, a twisting, narrow alleyway tightly packed with small stalls where local merchants sell strands of vibrant glass beads known as pote. Walk immediately past the front of the Akash Bhairab temple over to the eastern boundary of the open crossroads to enter the bazaar's premises.