Jnan Sbil Garden, Fes (must see)

Between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali, two districts of the old city of Fes, are the public gardens of Fes, the Jnan Sbil. Some say the gardens were created by Sultan Moulay Hassan in the late 19th century. He is said to have built the walls connecting Fes el-Jdid to Fes el-Bali. Others say no, this was done by Moulay Abdallah in the 18th century.

In any event, the two walls formed a corridor between the two areas and the gardens were established between the walls. Palaces of the sultans, such as the Dar al-Baida ("White Palace") and Dar Batha are also in the corridor. They were connected to the Royal Palace by an underground passage. Originally only for Royals, the gardens became public in 1917.

The gardens cover about 18.5 acres. They are a popular recreation area, especially in the evenings. There are attractive fountains and plantings of over 3,000 different species in exotic subsections labeled, "Andalusian Garden", "Mexican Garden", and "Bamboo Garden." The gardens become a venue for the World Sacred Music Festival once a year.

The gardens run alongside the course of the Fes River and the water channels that once provided water to the old city. Historic water wheels ("norias") are in the gardens, one in the west and a smaller one in the east.

In the southern part a pool is overshadowed by the ramparts of Fes el-Jdid and in particular the 16th century bastion of Borj Sheikh Ahmed.

Fes is a desert city. The gardens are a welcome lush green space. Stroll about the zellij-tiled water gardens among hanging roses and cool, bubbling fountains. Rest by looming palms and poplars. Visit the humble but enticing Cafe La Noria by the old water wheel and enjoy a mint tea.

There is also the Mezzanine, offering drinks on the rooftop terrace and smashing views of the gardens below. The gardens are open all days but Monday.