Rio Vermelho (Red River neighborhood), Salvador

The vibrant boho charm of Rio Vermelho really kicks in after dark, with a dazzling selection of restaurants to sip cocktails and even more bars to indulge in a tasty bite. The rest of the coastline is a bit quieter, though a few legendary seafood spots are perfect for a midday refuel after lounging on the beaches between Barra and Itapua.

For the city's thriving vegetarian crowd, Manjeiricao (Rua Fonte de Boi 3B) serves up a deliciously affordable per-kilo buffet in an ambiance that practically screams "oasis." Dona Mariquita (Rua do Meio 178) specializes in “endangered Northeastern recipes”-the kind of honest-to-goodness comfort food that were once found on street corners, marketplaces, and kitchens all across Brazil’s Northeast. The menu’s helpfully split into “pesada” (heavy-hitters) and “levinho” (light bites that won’t put you in a food coma).

If you’re feeling fancy but still want to keep it Bahian, Casa de Tereza (Rua Odilon Santos 45) is your place. Named after and run by local culinary rockstar Tereza Paim, this trendy spot elevates Bahian classics using sustainable ingredients like fish from Rio Vermelho’s own fishermen and hand-pressed dendeé oil. Expect dishes like crispy manioc shrimp drenched in passion fruit nectar, lobster moqueca, and a tapioca soufflé with champagne-ginger coulis. The exposed wooden beams and walls adorned with local art make it the kind of place you’ll want to linger in.

Bon appétit!