St. John's Co-Cathedral, Valletta (must see)

Saint John's Co-Cathedral in Valletta represents the rich heritage of the Knights of Malta. Commissioned in 1572 by Grand Master Jean de la Cassière and completed just a few years later, it served as the conventual church of the Order of Saint John. The design was entrusted to Glormu Cassar, the Maltese architect responsible for many of Valletta’s early buildings.

From the outside, the cathedral has a plain, fortress-like appearance—a reminder that it was built shortly after the Great Siege of 1565, during a time when defense shaped every corner of the new capital. The simplicity of the façade prepares visitors for the dramatic contrast they will encounter inside.

Once inside, you enter a very different world. Richly decorated walls are carved directly into the stone, and painted scenes from the life of Saint John by 17th-century Italian Baroque artist Mattia Preti cover the interior. Don’t miss the ceiling: Preti’s use of light and shadow makes some figures appear almost to lift off the surface. One of the most remarkable features is that the elaborate carvings were created directly on the walls, rather than being added later.

Make your way to the Oratory, located just beyond the right-hand side chapels. Here you’ll find Caravaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist, the cathedral’s best-known masterpiece and the only painting he ever signed. The vast canvas fills nearly an entire wall and is a striking example of his dramatic use of light and shadow. In the same space, look for his smaller work, Saint Jerome Writing, which is equally compelling.

Before leaving, pause in the Nave, where about 400 inlaid marble tombstones form a colorful, detailed floor. Each tombstone marks the final resting place of a knight of the Order of St. John and is decorated with heraldic symbols, coats of arms, and carvings highlighting the knight’s rank, achievements, and virtues. Many include allegorical figures, religious motifs, and inscriptions about their lives. The vibrant marbles, ranging from deep reds to soft whites and greens, create a mosaic-like effect across the cathedral’s nave and chapels.

Tip:
Get there early! This is a very popular attraction and the groups and cruise ship passengers descend by 10:30 or so.