Wallenstein Palace and Gardens, Prague

Feast your eyes on one of Prague’s grandest Baroque treasures—a 17th-century palace that marked the city’s first step into this dramatic architectural style. With high walls, lavish fountains, and elegant symmetry, the Wallenstein Palace and its gardens offer a full-blown sensory experience. Step into the vaulted Renaissance garden hall that opens out to the greenery, and you’ll instantly feel the aristocratic flair that once defined the place.

As you stroll through the carefully manicured paths, take in the statues and fountains scattered across the grounds—heroic warriors frozen mid-battle, mythological gods locked in eternal drama, and beasts frozen in defeat. And just when you think you’ve seen it all, you come upon the Grotto—a surreal wall of twisting dripstone that looks like it leapt straight from a dream. Faces emerge from the shadows, odd little creatures peek through the formations, and if you look closely, the rock even hints at mysterious doorways and hidden passages. It’s equal parts nature, fantasy, and architectural theater.

The man behind all of this splendor was Albrecht von Wallenstein, a military genius who rose to power during the chaos of the Thirty Years’ War. In 1622, with the Swedes and Protestant armies threatening, Emperor Ferdinand II turned to Wallenstein for help. Newly enriched by marriage and ambitious as ever, Wallenstein offered to raise and fund an army of twenty thousand men—no small favor. In gratitude, the emperor rewarded him with vast estates, including the land where this palace now stands.

He didn’t hesitate to clear the way, demolishing over twenty houses, a brickworks, and several gardens to make room for his vision. And what a vision it was—Wallenstein set out to rival Prague Castle itself. Today, much of the palace is home to the Czech Senate, with rooms like the Knight’s Hall still bearing his larger-than-life presence. There, he’s immortalized in a fresco as Mars, the Roman god of war, charging ahead in a chariot. The old riding school has also found new life as a space for art exhibitions, bridging the palace’s past with its cultural present.

Access to the interiors is limited to weekends, but the gardens welcome visitors every day. Look out for the understated entry points—they’re easy to miss, but what lies beyond is anything but forgettable. And if you’re visiting in summer, don’t miss the open-air concerts and theater performances that bring new life to these historic grounds.