Zawiya de Moulay Idriss II (Shrine of Moulay Idriss II), Fes

Just south of Al-Attarine Souk sits one of Fes’s most charged addresses: the Shrine of Moulay Idriss II. For roughly five centuries, this temple has radiated spiritual authority across the Medina. It was rebuilt in the 18th century by Sultan Moulay Ismail, and legend has it this was his sole major act of religious devotion in the city—an all-in gesture, if ever there was one.

Follow Derb Bab Moulay Ismail from the southeast corner of Nejjarine Square, and you’ll encounter an unassuming wooden bar stretched across the lane. This marks the boundary of the sanctuary zone. Before 1911, it functioned as a strict no-go line for Christians, Jews, and—quite firmly—pack animals.

For Muslims, however, crossing that threshold once meant instant refuge, beyond the reach of arrest or dispute. These days, the rules are gentler: non-Muslims can’t enter, but they’re free to linger outside and peer discreetly inward, hoping for a glimpse of the saint’s resting place.

Duck beneath that bar—no spy soundtrack needed—and head uphill along Derb Bab Moulay Ismail. The street tightens, the noise rises, and the senses are quickly overwhelmed. Vendors push silverware, sweets, and slabs of nougat with persuasive enthusiasm.

Somewhere along this stretch, the women’s entrance appears, offering a rare visual corridor into the complex. From here, the 15th-century Shrine of Moulay Idriss II becomes faintly visible, set deep within the structure and surrounded by an atmosphere heavy with devotion and murmured prayer.

Look closely, and you’ll spot one of the shrine’s more unexpected features: a collection of European clocks. These were prized gifts in the 19th century, imported from Manchester by wealthy Fassi merchant families and installed as symbols of prestige. It’s a quietly revealing detail—proof that even in one of Morocco’s most sacred spaces, global trade and local tradition have been keeping time together for centuries.