Aristotelous Square, Thessaloniki (must see)

It was August 1917. Greece had joined the Allied side in the Great War, and Thessaloniki was crowded with British and French troops, along with refugees from the collapsing Ottoman world across the Aegean Sea. In a small refugee house at Olympiados Street, a stray ember from a kitchen fire ignited stored straw. Fanned by strong winds, the flames spread rapidly. For two days, much of the city burned.

French architect Ernest Hébrard happened to be in Thessaloniki at the time. Prime Minister Eleftherios Venizelos immediately banned any ad-hoc rebuilding and ordered that reconstruction proceed only under a comprehensive modern plan. Hébrard was commissioned to redesign the devastated center. He proposed a city of broad avenues, generous public squares, and monumental facades drawing inspiration from Byzantine architecture. Among these new civic spaces was Alexander the Great Square, later renamed Aristotelous Square, designed as the city’s ceremonial heart.

A monumental axis was laid out from the sea-facing Aristotelous Square inland toward Dikastirion Square and the Roman Forum. Looking uphill from the square, toward the north, the line of the Byzantine city walls remains visible in the distance. Symbolism appears within the square itself: Aristotle sits casually in chiton and sandals near the eastern side of the square. If you stand facing inland, away from the sea, the statue will be to your right. Aristotle’s statue is a favorite local ritual; students polish the big toe of his left foot in hopes that some wisdom might rub off.

Today, Aristotelous Square functions as Thessaloniki’s principal gathering space, regularly hosting rallies, demonstrations, and major public celebrations, including Christmas and carnival events. If you stand facing inland, the western side of the square is dominated by the Electra Palace Hotel. Its symmetrical facade forms part of Hébrard’s original composition, while the Orizontes Roof Garden on the upper level opens southward toward the Thermaic Gulf.

Turn right and you'll see the Olympion Theatre on the eastern side of the square. It is a neoclassical cinema and one of the square’s key cultural landmarks. The building serves as the main venue of the Thessaloniki International Film Festival. During the festival, the square becomes an extension of the screenings themselves, filling with queues, conversations, and informal gatherings that spill directly into the surrounding streets.