Basilica di San Carpoforo (Basilica of St. Carpoforo), Como

Nestled in the historic Camerlata district just outside Como’s old city walls, the Basilica of Saint Carpoforo is a hidden gem for those seeking early Christian heritage and Romanesque architecture in Lombardy. According to tradition, it was founded in the late 4th century by San Felice, the first bishop of Como and sent by Ambrogio of Milan in 386 AD, making it the first church and proto‑cathedral of the Diocese of Como.

The basilica is believed to rest upon the exact spot where Carpoforo and several fellow soldiers were martyred during the persecutions under Maximian and Diocletian around 303–304 AD. Their martyrdom took place at the foot of Baradello Castle, once a site of pagan worship, possibly to Mercury. The building was later extended in the 8th century under Lombard King Liutprand, and dramatically updated in Romanesque style by the renowned Magistri Comacini in the early 11th century, including its distinctive apses, crypt, and veranda bell‑tower.

Visitors enter from the south aisle since the west façade is built against the slope, potentially due to landslides or deliberate orientation constraints. Inside, the basilica is framed by three asymmetrical naves supported by rectangular-pillared arcades. The presbytery is elevated over a triple-aisled crypt, and the main altar-adorned with richly colored Baroque marble-covers the sarcophagus of San Felice.

Though austere at first sight, the interior unfolds subtle surprises: early 16th‑century Mannerist frescoes grace the side chapels, while an 18th‑century baptismal fresco near the former baptismal font adds charm. This small yet evocative church invites reflection and discovery, especially for those interested in the scars, stories, and artistry of Como’s earliest Christian community (and its many transformations through the centuries).

A visit to San Carpoforo feels like stepping into a quieter, more contemplative chapter of Como’s past. Its layered history, from martyrdom to medieval restoration, makes it an essential stop on any tour of the city’s Romanesque landmarks-from the cathedral and Broletto downtown to the Basilica of Sant’Abbondio further afield.