Biblioteca Piccolomini (Piccolomini Library), Siena (must see)

Hidden inside Siena Cathedral, the Piccolomini Library is one of the most dazzling Renaissance interiors in Italy. It was commissioned in 1502 by Cardinal Francesco Todeschini Piccolomini, nephew of Pope Pius II. Pius II appointed the young Francesco as the Administrator of the Archdiocese of Siena and made him a cardinal in 1460, allowing him to adopt the prestigious Piccolomini name and coat of arms. Francesco eventually followed his uncle into the papacy, becoming Pope Pius III.

The library was created as a memorial to Pius II and was intended to house the pope’s collection of manuscripts. Although the complete collection was never transferred here, several richly illuminated 15th-century choir books remain on display. The room’s principal attraction, however, is its remarkably well-preserved fresco cycle.

Painted by Pinturicchio with assistance traditionally associated with the young Raphael, the ten wall scenes illustrate important episodes from the life of Pius II. Painted architectural columns frame each composition, while lavish costumes, detailed landscapes, and vivid colors bring the story to life. A carved marble portal brings you into the rectangular hall to view the ten scenes of Pius II wrapping entirely across the left, entrance, and right wall surfaces. The scenes show the future pope serving as an ambassador at European courts, meeting Emperor Frederick III, arranging the emperor’s marriage to Eleanor of Portugal, becoming a cardinal, and eventually being elected pope.

Above the entrance is a scene connected with the coronation of Pius III, whose papacy lasted only 26 days. Look closely at the fresco depicting the canonization of Saint Catherine of Siena: figures traditionally identified as Pinturicchio and Raphael appear among the spectators. The crescent moons repeated throughout the decoration are the emblem of the Piccolomini family.

At the center of the room stands a Roman copy of The Three Graces, based on a Hellenistic model. The classical treasure can be viewed up close in the middle of the tiled floor. The statue rests permanently on an elevated marble pedestal anchoring the space.

Remember to look upward as well: the richly painted ceiling, filled with ornamental patterns and mythological imagery, is every bit as impressive as the walls. The dense geometric patterns of blue and gold showcase the family crest.