Church of St. Sophia, Ohrid (must see)

The Cathedral Church of Saint Sophia is one of Ohrid’s most important medieval monuments. Its early history is uncertain, standing on the remains of an older Christian building. Saint Sophia probably served as a cathedral during the reign of Tsar Samuel around the end of the 10th century. In the mid-11th century, under Archbishop Leo of Ohrid, the church was extensively rebuilt and decorated with the magnificent frescoes for which it is famous today.

As you approach the sanctuary, look toward the apse at the far end of the church. High above the altar, the Virgin Enthroned holds Christ Emmanuel before her. Just below, the Communion of the Apostles unfolds across the curved wall, with Christ standing behind the altar as the apostles approach him from both sides.

Now look around the surrounding sanctuary walls. Here you can pick out unusual liturgical scenes, including the Liturgy of Saint Basil the Great, the Hospitality and Sacrifice of Abraham, and a scene associated with Saint John Chrysostom. In the northern side chapel, known as the prothesis, a cycle depicts the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste.

The church is dedicated not to a saint named Sophia, but to Holy Wisdom-Hagia Sophia-the divine wisdom of Christ. In the second half of the 15th century, during Ottoman rule, it was converted into a mosque. Architectural alterations were made, and its medieval frescoes were covered with layers of plaster and lime. Although this concealed the paintings for centuries, it also helped preserve substantial portions of them.

In 1912, Saint Sophia returned to use as an Orthodox church. Major conservation work began after World War II, with the frescoes systematically uncovered, cleaned, and conserved between 1949 and 1956. Their rediscovery revealed one of the most complete surviving programs of 11th-century Byzantine wall painting.