Eremo delle Carceri (Hermitage of the Prisons), Assisi (must see)

Throughout Assisi, you'll encounter images of the famous Hermitage, an active monastery nestled in oak woods some 6 kilometers east of the town. This hermitage served as an early retreat for Saint Francis and his followers, with legends recounting miraculous events such as the saint causing the courtyard well to flow, as depicted by Giotto. The so-called Oratorio Primitivo, a cell within the monastery, is believed to be the one occupied by Francis himself.

Inside the monastery's chapel, visitors can view various relics, including Francis's pillow and a fragment of the Golden Gate through which Jesus entered Jerusalem. Although the Hermitage once possessed additional treasures, such as a lock of the Virgin's hair and earth from the mound used to create Adam, these items have since vanished.

Tales associated with Saint Francis abound here, nevertheless. On one side of the church, there is a dry riverbed that reputedly fills only during times of public calamity, said to be a result of Francis's intervention. Another wall of the monastery was constructed over the "buco del diavolo" (devil's hole), into which Francis purportedly cast a devil through the power of prayer. An ancient holm oak, supported by iron stakes, is said to have shaded the saint and served as a gathering place for birds to hear his sermons.

While the Hermitage is accessible by road, the recommended approach is via footpath. Starting from Porta Cappuccini, visitors can follow a steep climb through cypress-lined tracks behind Rocca Minore. At a major fork along the path, turn right and continue until reaching the road above the monastery. Allow at least an hour for the journey, less for the return trip.