Mercado dos Lavradores (The Workers Market), Funchal (must see)

At the far end of Fernão Ornelas Street stands the Workers’ Market of Funchal, created in the late 1930s as part of a citywide modernization plan aimed at organizing food commerce and improving sanitary conditions. Designed by architect Edmundo Tavares and opened in 1940, the building reflects the Estado Novo political regime’s preference for strong geometric forms and practical public architecture. Its facade is lined with blue-and-white azulejo panels, illustrating scenes of Madeiran life and celebrating the island’s agricultural and fishing traditions.

As soon as you enter through the main Art Deco doorway, the flower hall is immediately on your left. This is where you’ll see rows of flower vendors, along with stalls selling seeds and bulbs—some in operation for more than fifty years. To continue into the market, walk straight ahead from the entrance and you will step into the central patio, where fruit and vegetable stands fill the open space. Small cafes, wine shops, and souvenir stalls line the perimeter on your right-hand side.

From the central patio, head straight across to the far end of the square. The Fish Hall is through the large doorway directly opposite the entrance. As you walk in, fishmongers line both the left and right sides, with long marble counters displaying black scabbardfish, tuna, octopus, and other local catches. The walls around you are decorated with tile illustrations of regional sea life.

To reach the upper level, turn right as you exit the Fish Hall and you’ll find the staircase leading to the second floor. Once upstairs, vendors selling exotic fruits, dried berries, spices, teas, and cork goods stretch out to your left and right along the balcony walkway. Keep walking to the far corner and you’ll reach the terrace, where two large cafes overlook the market. From here, you can look down into the central patio and even catch views of the surrounding rooftops.

The market neighborhood is always busy, but nothing compares to the night before Christmas Eve. This is when Market Night transforms the Workers’ Market into one of Funchal’s biggest street celebrations. Stalls spill into the streets, live music fills the air, people sing carols, and food and drink flow freely. It is one of Madeira’s most beloved traditions and a festive way to experience the island’s community spirit.