Cantina do Spade, Venice

Dating back to the fifteenth century, Cantina do Spade is one of those places where Venice’s past lingers-quietly, and a little mischievously. It even earns a mention in Casanova’s memoirs, which tells you immediately this was no innocent wine stop.

Just off the bustle near the Rialto Bridge, the tavern once sat squarely inside the city’s red-light district, a neighborhood Casanova navigated with professional confidence. This is where he entertained courtesans over food and wine, sealing alliances of the romantic sort. He would likely be surprised today: the interiors are modern, the shadows fewer, and the atmosphere far tamer than in his day.

What has survived, thankfully, is the Venetian appetite. Cantina do Spade is prized for its cicchetti-small plates designed to keep the conversation going as long as the wine. Expect fried seafood with a salty crunch, bold “picante” panini, and classics like baccalà mantecato (salt cod spread whipped into creamy submission). Add mozzarella in carrozza (or “mozzarella in a carriage", a classic Italian cheese sandwich)-fried, molten, unapologetic-and you begin to understand why people linger. Portions are generous, prices remain sensible, and the service is refreshingly straightforward.

This may no longer be a hideout for libertines, but it still rewards curiosity and a healthy appetite. If you plan to stop by, booking ahead is wise-Venice has many secrets, and this is one that rarely stays quiet for long...