Majolika-Haus (Majolica House), Vienna

Majolica House is one of those rare spots in Vienna (and probably further afield, too) where you can see flowers bloom not in the garden, but across the façade. This eye-catching beauty is the work of Otto Wagner, Vienna’s poster boy for the Secessionist movement. During his “I’m done with Baroque” phase, Wagner decided to ditch the frills and go full-on floral with clean lines and tiled elegance. The building’s name comes from its ceramic tiles, dripping with pinks, greens, and blues in swirling botanical glory. Think wallpaper for the outside walls, only waterproof and wildly photogenic.

Wagner’s architectural rebellion was all about simplicity with flair. No ornate carvings, no dramatic cornices-just smooth surfaces and windows that mind their own business. The outside hinted at the inside: clean, modern, functional. Still rectangular, sure, but very much a rebel in a world of curvy cupolas and frilly stonework. Today, it’s still considered a top-tier Art Nouveau masterpiece, minus the ego...

Not far off is House No. 38, where Wagner teamed up with fellow art renegades. You’ll spot Koloman Moser’s bold reliefs and Othmar Schimkowitz’s gilded stucco medallions catching sunlight like they know they're fabulous. Then there’s a more modest building at No. 3 Köstlergasse-rumored to be Wagner’s own residence. Understated, of course, because nothing says “architect’s ego” like hiding in plain sight.

And when you’re ready to change levels-literally-head down into Kettenbrückengasse subway station, also a Wagner design. It’s where style meets utility with such grace, you might forget you’re just waiting for a train.

Now, onward-Vienna doesn’t admire itself...

Pro tip:
Go on a bright day, and bring binoculars. Seriously. The details tucked under balconies and along the eaves are worth the squint. Wagner wasn’t just designing buildings-he was composing symphonies in ceramic and stucco.