Vienna Old Town Walking Tour (Self Guided), Vienna

Stephansplatz is a square at the geographical center of Vienna. It is named after its most prominent building – the Stephansdom – Vienna's main cathedral and one of the tallest churches in the world. Before the 20th century, a row of houses separated Stephansplatz from Stock-im-Eisen-Platz, but since their destruction, the name Stephansplatz started to be used for the wider area covering both.

To the west and south, respectively, run the exclusive shopping streets der Graben (literally the "Ditch") and Kärntner Straße ("Kärnten" is the German for Carinthia). Opposite the Stephansdom is the Haas-Haus, a piece of striking modern architecture by Hans Hollein. Although public opinion was originally skeptical about the combination of medieval cathedral and a glass-and-steel building, it is now considered an example of how old and new architecture can mix harmoniously.

Why You Should Visit:
While this might not be the best location for a gourmet meal, sitting in one of the local cafes does provide for world-class people watching in a prime historic location. With the Stephansdom dominating the scene, you can't go wrong.

Tip:
While in Stephansplatz, walk around the side of the Stephansdom to see a miniature thereof. It's quite fun to see it tiny!

Out of total 11 of Mozart's abodes in Vienna, Mozarthaus at Domgasse 5 is the only one that still exists – restored in 2006 to commemorate his 250th anniversary – and is where the composer reportedly spent his happiest years. Perhaps this explains the significant number of compositions Mozart created while here, including the exquisite Haydn-dedicated quartets, a handful of piano concertos and "The Marriage of Figaro" and "Don Giovanni" operas. From this point on it was all downhill for Mozart, who then moved to the suburbs due to financial difficulties.

Unlike some other famous house-museums in Vienna, this one has none of the original furnishings to see; instead, it focuses on the composer's genius and allows visitors to imagine how the spacious, elegant apartment might have looked. Concerts are regularly staged here, along with some activities for children.

It might be a good idea to take the lift to the 3rd floor and start your way from there downward, exploring Mozart's life as a child prodigy touring all across 18th-century Europe until finally moving from Salzburg to Vienna. His vices – namely: womanizing, gambling and ability to waste excessive amounts of money – lend a spicy edge. The 2nd floor deals with different versions of his operatic works (some played in sync), while the 1st floor focuses on the years that Mozart lived at this exact address.

Why You Should Visit:
To explore the life and work of the musical genius in a unique setting in the heart of Vienna. Nowhere else did Mozart compose more music. Visitors can see not only the historical apartment but also an extensive presentation of major works by Mozart and of the times in which he lived.

Tip:
Save on the entrance fee by combining your ticket with either Haus der Musik or Dom Museum Wien.

Opening Hours:
Daily: 10am–7pm; last admission: 6:30pm

Placing a modern style edifice directly opposite the Gothic Stephansdom (St. Stephen's Cathedral) was a difficult task with which the city entrusted one of Austria's leading Postmodernist architects, Hans Hollein, author of several uncompromising jewelry stores along der Graben and Kohlmarkt streets, each of which is a minor masterpiece in its own right. The result was the iconic 1990 Haas Haus, a shining, partly mirrored structure of glass, steel and blue-green marble that curves elegantly into the street, successfully blending into the colors, shapes, and grandeur of downtown Vienna.

The building looks pleasingly asymmetrical, replete with decorative elements, such as lopsided cubes of marble attached to the facade, a protruding structure high up resembling a diving board, and a Japanese-style bridge inside. The architecture proved an intelligent alternative to the demands of Historicism on the one hand and aggressive modernism on the other, presenting a futuristic, respectful challenge to the nearby Cathedral's soaring spires, reflected in the mirrored facade. Along with the office spaces, the Haas Haus atrium accommodates cafes, shops, a restaurant, and the upmarket DO & CO Hotel.

Tip:
Take a ride to the top of the building to check out the coffee house, and enjoy the view of the old Cathedral with a nice cup of coffee in hand.
Alternatively, visit the HAAS & HAAS TEAHOUSE (Mon-Sat: 8am–8pm; Sun/Holidays: 9am–6pm) located just outside the Cathedral.

Kärntner Straße (Carinthian Street) is Vienna's main shopping thoroughfare, in place since the Roman era. Originally known as Strata Carinthianorum – the first record of it dates back to 1257 – this street used to link the downtown area to the city wall. Only a handful of historic buildings from that period still remain, having survived WWII.

Today Kärntner Straße extends from Stephansplatz to Karlsplatz, and is chockablock with old-time houses, traditional shops and stylish flagship stores of popular and luxury international retail brands, some of which are hidden in the side streets. En route, the street abounds in historical gems, such as the Winter Palace of Prince Eugene and Neuermarkt. The Maltese Church seemed like an anachronism in the face of modern retail shops surrounding it and, of course, at the end of Kärntner, the majestic Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera House). In 1974, the street was made fully pedestrian, much to the delight of local residents and tourists, who flock here regularly to shop, stroll, and generally enjoy themselves.

Why You Should Visit:
Great for shopping, people-watching, and admiring Vienna's baroque architecture.

Tip:
Can get pretty crowded, especially during peak tourist season.

If you're determined to treat yourself to the best chocolate cake in Vienna, if not anywhere, consider Sacher Café as a safe bet. Renowned for their world-famous cake, known as the Original Sacher-Torte, created by chef Franz Sacher for a Hapsburg royal party in 1832, this cafe has been in place since 1876 opened, along with the Sacher Hotel, by Sacher’s son Ed.

After Ed's death 16 years later, his wife Anna took over the business and attained global recognition, both for the hotel and the household cake brand. As of 1934, the Sacher Hotel and Café have been run by the Gürtler family, over which period the cafe has seen among its clientele the likes of Gandhi, Queen Elizabeth II and John F Kennedy. A visit to Sacher is truly a must while in Vienna; even on a tight budget – a mere €8 can get you a really good coffee and an excellent slice of cake.

Tip:
Inside the Sacher Hotel, there are three different colored fancy salons for dining, in addition to the main cafe, plus the 2-story Eck which views over the Opera House. If the cafe is overcrowded, consider getting your Sacher cake at the neighboring Sacher Stube Café which is run by the same family. If you are not sure which coffee pairs best with the cake, go for the traditional combination of Vienna's staple hot black coffee with foamed milk and whipped cream.

What better place to visit as an art lover while in Vienna? Located in the largest of the Habsburg dynasty's residential palaces, the Albertina is home to the largest and most valuable graphical collection in the world. You can look forward to priceless prints, over 65,000 water-colors and drawings, some 70,000 photographs, and pieces from all-over-the-world recognized artists, including the Old Masters: Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael, Rembrandt, and others.

There are many expositions to go through, but highlights include the Batliner Collection – an extraordinary display of modernist art, where you can admire Impressionist pieces from Monet, Degas, Cézanne or Picasso, and go through other artistic movements such as Fauvism, Brücke, Cubism or Surrealism – a very good counterpoint to the Italian/Flemish masterpieces of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Besides, if you are a big fan of Klimt and Schiele, then this is the perfect gallery for you.

Renovation has restored a number of features of the Albertina to their former glory, including the façades and the wide open central courtyard. The excellent DO & CO restaurant serves coffee, desserts and light meals while offering splendid vistas of the historical center, and the Burggarten is the perfect place to take a break. On your way to the exit, there is also a good-sized gift shop with books relevant to the artwork and artists on display, as well as souvenirs relevant to Vienna and Austria.

Why You Should Visit:
Beautiful building with a fantastic selection of artworks and art styles. Easy to get in with an online ticket (no waiting time).
The open balcony area on the top floor is an excellent place for picture taking, as it faces many of the city's historical buildings.

Tip:
Make sure you have at least 2.5 hours on your hands to check everything.
The audio guide is for all the exhibitions, so it is worth spending some extra for it.

Opening Hours:
Sat-Tue, Thu: 10am–6pm; Wed, Fri: 10am–9pm

The Imperial Crypt, otherwise known as the Capuchin Crypt, is a burial chamber beneath the Capuchin Church and monastery located in Neuer Markt square of Vienna's Innere Stadt, near the Hofburg Palace. It was founded in 1618 and dedicated in 1632.

Anna of Tyrol, wife of Emperor Matthias, conceived the idea of a Capuchin cloister and burial crypt for herself and her husband to be built in the neighborhood of the Hofburg castle. She provided funds for the construction in her will left on 10 November 1617, and soon made the funds available by dying just a year later. Her spouse followed her a year after that.

Since 1633, the Imperial Crypt had served as the principal place of entombment for the members of the House of Habsburg. The bones of 145 Habsburg royalty, plus urns containing the hearts or cremated remains of four others, are here, including 12 emperors and 18 empresses. The visible 107 metal sarcophagi and five heart urns range in style, from puritan plain to exuberant rococo.

Why You Should Visit:
Imperial Crypt tells a fascinating story of the Habsburg dynasty, one of the oldest and most significant Imperial families on the European continent, and, as such, is well worth a visit.

The Spanish Riding School (Spanische Reitschule) of Vienna is famous all over the world as the only place to have preserved and practiced classic equestrian skills for over 450 years. While the exact origins of the school are obscure, it is believed to have been founded by the Habsburgs in 1572 to cultivate haute école horsemanship by way of breeding and training horses from Spain, hence the name. The original location of the school – the former residence of the Emperor Maximilian – dates back to 1729 and has not changed much since.

Among other things, this school is particularly famous for its Lipizzaner horses. These noble creatures are perhaps the only horses in the world to live in an emperor’s palace. As a formal dressage school, the Reitschule provides instruction in the military tactics that the Lipizzaners have been famous for since the time of Napoleon, and whose performances are a timeless delight for visitors to this day.

The school offers regular 70-90-minute public demonstrations in the opulent Winter Riding School, commissioned in 1729 by Emperor Karl VI. Ranging across three levels of complexity and formality, these performances of outstanding horsemanship are accompanied by music, and have not changed a bit for decades, still thrilling the crowds. The stallions performing athletic feats on the sawdust of the school arena take their name from the stud farm at Lipizza near Trieste in Slovenia, founded by Archduke Karl in 1580. Originally, they were produced by crossing Arab, Berber and Spanish horses renowned for their grace and stamina. The horses begin learning the complex sequences of steps at the age of three.

The gracious interior of the school is lined with 46 columns and adorned with elaborate plasterwork, chandeliers and a coffered ceiling. At the head of the arena is the royal box along with the galleries for spectators. Riders entering the arena traditionally doff their hats to the portrait of Karl VI as a token of respect. The equestrian statue of another emperor, Josef II, adorns the school courtyard.

Why You Should Visit:
If you're a horse lover, watching these incredible creatures is a must when in Vienna. But even you are not fond of horse shows, a guided tour (English/German) through the stabling and the riding arena with background information & details about the complex history and breeding system is worth a visit anytime.

Tip:
If you like horses, it is great to see them train in the morning.
If you want to see them jump, go for the actual show. Make sure to book tickets online in advance to skip the long queues.
If you drop into the (not too expensive) on-site cafe for a coffee, drink or snack, you can go out to the terrace, adjacent to which is a wooden enclosure where you can see the horses and their riders practice before the show - and that actually won't cost you anything.

Opening Hours:
Tue-Sun: 9am-4pm (Jan-Feb); Mon-Sun: 9am-4pm (Mar-Dec)
Fridays, in case of an evening show: 9am-7pm

Michaelplatz is a square in front of The Hofburg Imperial Palace. As you enter, you can't help noticing the impressive Neo-Baroque Michaelertor (Michael’s Gate) leading through the Michaelertrakt to the Hofburg’s inner courtyard. On both sides of the doorway are 19th-century fountains, created by Rudolf Weyer.

Opposite the gate is the grand Michaelerkirche (St Michael's church), formerly the parish church of the imperial court and one of the oldest Baroque churches in the city which lends its name to the square itself. The earliest parts of the church date back to the 13th century; according to legend, the Michaelerkirche was built in 1221, yet its present form originated in 1792. The porch is topped by Baroque sculptures depicting the Fall of the Angels. Inside are Renaissance and 14th-century frescoes, and a vividly carved, gilded organ (1714) by Johann David Sieber, the largest in Vienna, once played by Joseph Haydn. Off the north choir is the crypt entrance. In the 17th and 18th centuries, parishioners were often buried beneath their church. Well preserved bodies clothed in their burial finery can still be viewed in open coffins.

At the center of the square there is a viewing spot for an excavation of a Roman encampment. There are also some old Medieval foundation walls to be seen, plus the remnants of the old Burg Theater.

In contrast to this, overlooking Michaelerplatz, opposite the Michaelertor, is one of the most modern buildings in Vienna, called the Looshaus. Designed by Adolf Loos, it is now famous, although, back in the day, it was considered an eye sore for its rather simple, unadorned design. So much so, in fact, that when completed in 1912, the building caused so much outrage on the part of the Emperor Franz Joseph who declared that he would never use the Michaelertor ever again. The source of his indignation was the building’s starkly functional upper facade contrasting dramatically with the nearby fine ornate Baroque architecture. Today, the Looshaus is a working bank, but visitors are allowed into the lobby to view the elegant interior, which is richly clad in polished timber, green marble and mirrors.

Sitting just across from the Looshaus is the Palais Herberstin. Built in 1896, it replaced an older building that used to be a popular meeting spot for young writers and artisans. The old cafe, called Griensteidl, has been rebuilt in the new structure, though much of its regular crowd have moved to Café Central in Palace Ferstel.

Why You Should Visit:
Main entrance to the historic center of Vienna, there's just so much to see and enjoy – grand architecture or just a cup of coffee.

Tip:
Doing one of the horse-drawn carriage tours is highly recommended, a great way to see the central part of Vienna and worth the money.

Located in the center of Vienna, for over 700 years the Hofburg has been the seat of Austrian power. Up until the end of the monarchy in 1918, it had served as the official home of the Habsburg Empire and the imperial winter residence. Originally built in 1279 as a modest city fortress, the Hofburg or “Castle of the Court” grew over the centuries – extended by each Austrian sovereign (emperors of the Holy Roman Empire from 1452, and emperors of Austria from 1806) – into a lavish palatial complex, becoming one of the most important centers of European history.

Numerous architects have worked at the Hofburg, resulting in a range of architectural styles, from Gothic to late 19th century Historicism. During the 18th century it was enlarged with several magnificent Baroque extensions, including residences (Amalienburg and Albertina), the Imperial Chapel (Hofkapelle or Burgkapelle), the Treasury (Schatzkammer), the Burgtheater, the Spanish Riding School (Hofreitschule), and the Imperial Mews (Stallburg and Hofstallungen). Between 1723 and 1735, the Imperial Library (Hofbibliothek), now the Austrian National Library, was built to house the precious collection of books owned by the Habsburgs. The Great Hall with its harmonious Baroque interior is one of the most beautiful of its kind in the world.

The Kaiserappartements and Albertina, the former state apartments and art collections, today draw crowds with hoards of imperial treasure and world-class collections of fine art. In the deep basement of one part of the Hofburg once was an imperial wine cellar spread over three floors. The remaining holdings of wine were auctioned off at the end of the monarchy and the space used for a depository of plaster models of fountains and monuments.

Overall, the sprawling Hofburg complex extends over 240,000 m² consisting of 18 wings, 19 courtyards and 2,600 rooms in which nearly 5,000 people still work and live. The rooms in which Emperor Joseph II once drew up his revolutionary program of reforms, where the Congress of Vienna met, and where Emperor Franz Joseph held audiences, now house the official residence and workplace of the Federal President of the Republic of Austria (located in the Leopoldine Wing since 1946) alongside offices of the ministers of the chancellor's office and the secretaries of state. The palace is also the permanent home of the Organization for Security and Co-operation in Europe (OSCE).

Why You Should Visit:
To gain insight into the world of Austria's illustrious emperors furnished and decorated to the highest standards of historical authenticity.

Tip:
There is also a chapel built inside the complex, which is open to the public. If you come for Sunday Mass, you will be able to listen to the famous Vienna Boys Choir performing here regularly.

Demel is a famous pastry shop and chocolaterie in Vienna, established in 1786. The company bears the title of a Purveyor to the Imperial and Royal Court since 1874.

Demel was previously known as Hofzuckerbäckerei pastry shop, founded by Ludwig Dehne, a confectioner from Württemberg. Upon his early death in 1799, the business was continued by his widow for their minor son August Dehne. The latter inherited the company in 1832 and successfully managed the business, however, as his son pursued an academic career, he sold the company to his journeyman, Christoph Demel, in 1857.

Renamed Ch. Demel's Söhne in 1867, Christoph Demel's sons Joseph and Karl continued the business and were granted the title of a purveyor to the Habsburg court by Emperor Franz Joseph I in 1874. In the heyday of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, notable customers of Demel included Empress Elisabeth (Sisi), Princess Pauline von Metternich, and actress Katharina Schratt. During the Austrian Anschluss to Nazi Germany in 1938–45, the Vienna Gauleiter Baldur von Schirach and his wife Henriette were also regulars here.

If you want to travel back to the imperial times and enjoy an authentic Austrian dessert, this is a great place to go.

Opening Hours: 8:00am - 7:00pm Daily

St. Peter’s Church sits atop one of the oldest known religious sites in Vienna. There has been a church on this spot since the early 4th century AD. A much larger version of today's church was reportedly built in 792, founded by none other than Charlemagne himself. Attesting to this is a plaque on the building's facade that tells of the legend of Charlemagne.

In more modern times, St. Peter’s Church takes up much less space, being crunched into what it occupies on St. Peter's Square. The overall architectural design is Baroque. In fact, this is one of the most decorated churches you will find anywhere, for any building designed in that style.

The outer color is white and a very light yellow. There are two towers that made up the classic outside look of the building. The turrets turn inward ever so slightly. It is said that the towers get their shape after the tent poles of the Turks who used to occupy this region in the late 1600s.

You will also want to visit the inside, as it contains some of the best paintings dating to the 1700s. Many of the wood carvings and alter pieces date back to that period. Currently, the structure is owned and operated by the Opus Dei (“Work of God”) part of the Catholic Church.

Why You Should Visit:
Definitely a good place to marvel at sumptuous Baroque architecture. Full of gold, marble, and finery!

Tip:
Each day from 3 till 3:30pm you can listen to live organ music here for free (donation only). An impressive way to admire this church!
Choir performances are also frequent, with for-fee events in the underground vaults.

Opening Hours:
Mon-Fri: 7am-8pm; Sat-Sun: 9am-9pm

Der Graben (or the "Ditch") is one of the most famous streets in all of Vienna. It dates back to the Roman times and has been an integral part of the city throughout history. The likes of Richard the Lionheart himself once set foot on this road when entered the city.

The name comes from an old trench that used to roughly follow the shape of the road. Eventually, it was filled in, and thus caused the Graben to become one of the first modern roads in Vienna.

You can start at Stock-im-Eisen-Platz and travel down to the other end, at Tuchlauben, passing by some truly wonderful old buildings. Among them are the Ankerhaus, a place where Otto Wagner used to live, and the Palais Bartolotti-Partenfeld, the favorite summer home of the famous Baron family, to mention but a few.

On the way, you will want to visit the Generalihof, the former seat of the Leopold Kozeluch Musikalisches Magazin (“Music Magazine”) publishing house, founded in 1784, in which some of the works by Wolfang Amadeus Mozart were published for the first time. Moving down the road, you can see the Grabenhof, one of the most distinctive buildings at the heart of Vienna's pedestrianized downtown, the former home of Joseph Ferdinand Sonnleithner, founder of the famous music society of Vienna. Built in 1876 and designed by Otto Wagner and Otto Thienemann, it stands on the site of the historic Arkadenhaus that had been there since the late 16th century.

No trip down der Graben would be complete without a stop to see the ERSTE Foundation building, housing the headquarters for the Erste Osterreichische Spar Casse, Austria's biggest savings bank, established since 1835.

Why You Should Visit:
To marvel at beautiful architecture and Baroque statues, and enjoy the musicians and street actors along the way, as you shop, eat, sightsee and soak up the life of Vienna.
A fantastic place to visit, especially during Christmas, with all the decorations, lamps and snow.

With its intricately patterned tiled roof, the imposing Gothic cathedral of St. Stephen's (Stephansdom) is a prime landmark inside Vienna's old city center, having stood watch over the place for nearly 700 years. Its distinctive south tower rises to an impressive 445 feet and previously has served as the main observation and command post for the city's walled defense, for which purpose it even contained an apartment for watchmen who, until 1955, manned the tower at night and rang the bells if a fire was spotted. There was to be a twin north tower, but for several reasons, it ended up being just half the size and of a different design.

The views from the Watch Room, at the top, are surely worth climbing the 343 steps, otherwise you can take a lift up to a viewing platform on the shorter tower, home to the massive Pummerin ("Boomer") Bell – the largest in Austria, originally cast from melted-down cannons abandoned by the Turks while fleeing Vienna in 1683.

High points of the interior are the gorgeous vaulting of the Albertine Chapel, the stone pulpit (a masterwork of late Gothic sculpture), canopies or baldachins over many of the side altars, and a most spectacular Renaissance work – Friedrich III's tomb. You also won't want to miss the 14th century catacombs and the treasury where some of the cathedral's most valuable objects are displayed. Some of them can only be seen on a guided tour, such as a red marble sepulcher sculpted in 1467-1513, the 16th-century pulpit, a Gothic winged altar from the 1440s, and the tomb of Prince Eugene of Savoy dated 1754.

Visit St. Stephen's Cathedral and you'll be standing in the same church in which Joseph Haydn once sang as a choir boy until his voice broke, and where Johann Strauss married both of his wives, Henrietta Treffz and Angelika Dittrich. A memorial tablet gives a detailed account of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart's relationship with the cathedral, including that of him being appointed an adjunct music director here shortly before his death. This was his parish church when he lived at the Figaro House and he was married here; two of his children were also baptized at St. Stephen's, and his funeral was held in the Chapel of the Cross inside.

Why You Should Visit:
While incredible architecture is rather commonplace in Vienna, this majestic Roman-Gothic masterpiece is absolutely unmistakable and not to be missed.

Tip:
Be sure to make a loop around the structure as there are many interesting details still visible on the outside walls.

Opening Hours:
Mon-Sat: 6am-10pm; Sun: 7am-10pm