Ritter Palace, Lucerne

Perhaps the most impressive Renaissance palace in Lucerne’s Old Town, the Ritterscher Palace began as a private residence. It was commissioned in 1556 by Mayor Lux Ritter, a former mercenary and wealthy landowner who wanted a home that reflected his status. His choice was a Renaissance palazzo in the Florentine style, with massive stone blocks and finely crafted masonry-a style that had been used in Florence for around a century but was still something new in Lucerne.

For the project, Ritter hired the well-known Italian stonemason Giovanni Lynzo, also known as Hans of Trient. Lynzo was apparently reluctant to take on the commission, and his story took a dramatic turn during construction. He was found guilty of heresy and beheaded. According to legend, on the day of his execution, he cursed Lux Ritter, who, by coincidence or otherwise, died just a few days later.

At that point, only about two-thirds of the three-story palace and its open courtyard had been completed. Ritter’s heirs were unable to continue the work, so the city council of Lucerne took over the project and finished the building. In 1578, it was handed over to the Jesuits, who had recently arrived in the city.

Today, the palace attracts not only history enthusiasts but also art lovers. On the top-floor corridor, look for the remarkable “Dance of Death” series painted by Jakob von Will. It consists of seven paintings containing 23 scenes, showing people from different social classes being confronted by death.

The building now also serves as the seat of the Cantonal Administration. Its offices surround the impressive inner courtyard, where a three-story loggia supported by Tuscan columns is one of the palace’s finest architectural features. Since this is still a working government building, remember to keep your voice down as you look around.

The palace is generally open to the public during office hours, Monday through Friday, and admission is free. However, access may occasionally be restricted for government events or official receptions.