That Dam (Black Stupa), Vientiane (must see)

That Dam, often called the Black Stupa, is a Buddhist monument believed to date from the late sixteenth century. It is often linked to the reign of King Setthathirath (1548–1571), who moved the Lao royal capital to this area in 1560 and ordered several religious monuments to be built. The exact construction year is unknown. Unlike many stupas covered with gold, this one has a dark surface, which gave it the name “Black Stupa.”

Local tradition gives the monument an important place in Lao folklore. A well-known legend says a seven-headed naga, a serpent from Buddhist mythology, lives beneath the stupa and protects the area. Some stories claim the spirit helped defend the city during the Siamese invasion of 1827–1828. Although this story is part of legend rather than written history, it reflects the belief that sacred sites are protected by spiritual guardians.

The stupa has a simple but solid design. It rises in several narrowing tiers built from brick and covered with plaster that has darkened over time. Small decorative shapes and niches can still be seen on the surface, though many details have worn away. Trees and plants now grow around the base, giving the monument a quiet setting within a small open square where people sometimes stop to rest.

Historical accounts suggest the stupa was once covered with gold leaf, which would have made it shine like many other Buddhist monuments of the period. During the Siamese invasion in 1827–1828, the gold was reportedly removed. Since then the structure has remained largely unrestored, which explains its dark color today. Its weathered appearance reflects the long history of the Lao kingdom and the events that shaped the region over several centuries.