Custom Walk in Lyon, France by noel_grey_e6492 created on 2024-10-19

Guide Location: France » Lyon
Guide Type: Custom Walk
# of Sights: 10
Tour Duration: 1 Hour(s)
Travel Distance: 1 Km or 0.6 Miles
Share Key: TXWG9

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1
Lyon Cathedral

1) Lyon Cathedral (must see)

In 450 AD, on or about, Bishop Patiens of Lyon - later sainted, so clearly doing something right - decided the city needed a proper cathedral. He dedicated it to Saint Stephen. A baptistry followed in the 7th century, because what’s a cathedral without a place for dramatic spiritual beginnings? Nearby stood the Church of Saint Croix. All of this activity took place right here in Old Lyon, close to the Saône River - the very ground where Lyon Cathedral would rise 800 years later.

Now, here’s where the story gets ambitious. The new cathedral was built over the ruins of Saint Stephen’s and is traditionally linked to Saints Pothinus and Irenaeus, early Christian figures in Lyon. Construction began in 1180 and, in true medieval fashion, took nearly three centuries to wrap up in 1476.

And yet, somehow, the style holds together beautifully. Romanesque solidity meets Gothic height in a surprisingly calm architectural handshake - no dramatic identity crisis despite the long build...

The numbers are impressive. The cathedral stretches 263 feet in length, with the nave soaring 107 feet high. The façade leans Gothic, with pointed arches and vertical lines drawing your eyes upward. Move toward the apse and choir, and you feel the heavier, rounded strength of Romanesque design. Above you, the ribbed vault of the nave lifts in full Gothic confidence, as if the building is taking a deep, stone-carved breath.

Inside, you’ll see one of the cathedral's greatest stars: a 30-foot-high astronomical clock. Installed in 1383, it didn’t just tell time - it mapped the heavens. Its astrolabe charts the positions of the Sun, Moon, stars, and Earth. Quite advanced for the Middle Ages...

The clock was smashed in 1562, during the Wars of Religion, by François de Beaumont, Baron of Adrets - clearly not a fan of delicate mechanics - and later rebuilt in 1661 by master clockmaker Guillaume Norrisson. Second life, same cosmic ambition...

Each year, in December, candles glow in windows across Lyon to honor the Virgin Mary. It is then that the cathedral façade transforms into a canvas of light during the Festival of Lights, marking the city’s gratitude for the end of the plague in 1643. Stone, history, astronomy, and light are all layered into one remarkable building.
2
Musée Cinéma et Miniature (Cinema and Miniature Museum)

2) Musée Cinéma et Miniature (Cinema and Miniature Museum) (must see)

The Cinema and Miniature Museum (Musée Cinéma et Miniature) in Lyon, stands as a testament to the magical world of cinema and the intricate art of miniatures. Established by the renowned miniaturist Dan Ohlmann, this private museum is situated in a UNESCO-listed Renaissance building, nestled in the picturesque heart of Old Lyon.

Spanning an impressive 2000 square meters of exhibition space, the museum offers an immersive experience of the grand history of cinema. It features a remarkable collection of over a thousand original works, including costumes and iconic props that have captivated audiences in some of the most beloved films in cinematic history. The museum’s extensive array of artifacts encompasses pieces from blockbuster movies such as "Back to the Future," "Star Wars," "Mary Poppins," "Harry Potter," "Indiana Jones," "Alien," "Matrix," "Batman," "Terminator," and many others.

The Cinema and Miniature Museum serves not only as a treasure trove for cinephiles but also as an educational journey into the world of filmmaking. It aims to unveil the secrets behind special effects and the unique crafts and techniques that define the Seventh Art. The museum's permanent collections showcase costumes, props, makeup, animatronics, puppets, and sculptures, revealing the movie-making process.

In addition to its cinematic wonders, the museum is also renowned for housing the world's largest international collection of miniature art. This extraordinary assemblage includes a thousand realistic masterpieces, each meticulously and skillfully crafted by various miniature artists from around the globe. These miniatures, with their astonishing attention to detail, complement the cinematic exhibits by showcasing another form of artistic mastery.
3
Rue Saint-Jean - Old Lyon Traboules

3) Rue Saint-Jean - Old Lyon Traboules (must see)

Back in 1954, Lyon’s Old Town made history. It became the first city in France to receive protection under the Malraux Law, long before “heritage preservation” became fashionable dinner conversation. The law shielded three Renaissance neighbourhoods wrapped around Fourvière Hill, namely: Saint Jean, Saint Paul, and Saint Georges.

In the Middle Ages, Saint Jean was the place to be - politically, religiously, and strategically. Power lived here. Right at the heart of it stands Lyon Cathedral, alongside the Romanesque Manecanterie, the former choir school.

But the real local secret isn’t just above ground - it’s hidden in the walls. The first traboule, or foot tunnel, linked Saint-Jean Street to Government Square. Why? Because medieval streets were few, the hill was steep, and everyone needed quicker access to the Saône River for fresh water. When streets failed, ingenuity stepped in...

So, Lyon built passageways - traboules - hidden corridors threading through buildings, across courtyards, quietly connecting one street to another. In the 19th century, more were added. The silk workers - the famous Canuts - used them to carry delicate rolls of silk down to the river without exposing them to rain.

When those same workers rebelled in the 1830s against wealthy silk merchants, the traboules turned into strategic hideouts. Fast forward to World War II, and the tunnels once again proved useful - this time sheltering members of the French Resistance. Indeed, these walls have seen more secrets than a confessional.

Now, if you’re curious, head to 54 Rue Saint-Jean. Look for a modest green door with a small engraved sign reading “The Long Traboule.” It doesn’t shout for attention - it doesn’t need to. This is the longest traboule in Old Lyon. Cross the threshold, and you’ll pass through five courtyards and four different buildings, emerging on Beef Street, if you’re translating literally. It feels less like walking through a corridor and more like slipping through time.

Around 50 traboules are open to the public today. But many more remain hidden, known mostly to residents. And that’s the charm of Lyon - a city where history doesn’t just sit in monuments. It runs behind walls, under your feet, and occasionally behind an unassuming green door...
4
Rue du Bœuf (Beef Street)

4) Rue du Bœuf (Beef Street)

Rue du Bœuf (Beef Street) is a charming pedestrian thoroughfare located in the historic district of Old Lyon, and it holds the prestigious status of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This street serves as a prime example of Renaissance-style architecture, boasting a collection of well-preserved houses from the 16th and 17th centuries, many of which feature hidden passageways called traboules, although these are not accessible to the general public. Notably, the longest and most impressive traboule can be found at No. 27, spanning four houses and connecting to Saint John Street (Rue Saint-Jean) at No. 54.

The origins of Beef Street can be traced back to the late 3rd century AD when inhabitants of Fourvière, situated in the upper part of Lugdunum, faced water shortages and were compelled to settle along the banks of the Saône River. Over time, this settlement developed into what we now know as Old Lyon. Before 1586, it was a part of Tramassac Street, which was known for housing prosperous merchants. In the 16th century, the street acquired its current name, "Beef Street," accompanied by the installation of a sculpted cattle statue in a niche at the corner of New Saint John Square (Place Neuve Saint Jean). Furthermore, the former local mint was transformed into the Hôtel du Grollier in 1590.

The Beef Street has been home to notable residents throughout its history. One such figure was Laurent Dugas, a magistrate and writer who maintained his office here in 1711. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the renowned magician Philippe also had his office in this street, specifically on the ground floor of the Renaissance building at No. 6. A reminder of his presence can still be seen in the form of a sign in the Courtyard of Lodges (Cour des Loges).
5
La Tour Rose Traboule (The Pink Tower Passageway)

5) La Tour Rose Traboule (The Pink Tower Passageway)

In the heart of Lyon’s Saint-Jean district stands a building with two names and plenty of personality: the House of the Sieve - or, more memorably, The Pink Tower. Built in the 16th century and attributed to the Italian architect Sebastiano Serlio of Bologna, it carries the elegance of the Renaissance with quiet confidence. The courtyard was refreshed in the 17th century, but the spirit of the place remains unmistakably Renaissance.

As for the curious name “House of the Sieve,” no one can say for certain. One popular theory links it to Martin de Troyes, a 16th-century tax collector whose coat of arms may have featured a sieve - perhaps a subtle reminder that taxes, like flour, must pass through fine filters.

From the street, you might walk past without suspecting anything dramatic. The façade is reserved, almost discreet. But step through the gate, and the building changes character completely. Suddenly, rising before you, is a monumental circular tower washed in soft pink plaster - a bold architectural statement hidden in plain sight.

Inside that tower curls a grand spiral staircase-belvedere, climbing upward in elegant curves. Semicircular bay windows open onto terraces and gardens that unfold across several levels, while a historic well stands quietly at the courtyard’s edge, as if keeping watch over centuries of stories.

The Pink Tower has also hosted its share of distinguished guests. In 1600, King Henri IV of France stayed here briefly during his marriage celebrations with Marie de Medici. Imagine the courtyard filled with royal footsteps and whispered courtly conversations. Its significance was officially recognized in 1937, when it was listed as a historic monument. Still, like many grand old residences, it experienced periods of neglect before careful restoration efforts revived its former glory.

Today, known as the tallest building in the Saint-Jean area, the Pink Tower remains one of Old Lyon’s most captivating sights. It stands not just as an architectural curiosity, but as a symbol of the neighborhood’s hidden wonders - especially the famous traboules that weave through the district. So, whenever you wander these medieval streets, don’t be fooled by modest façades. Sometimes the real spectacle is waiting just behind the door.
6
Musée Gadagne: Museum of Lyon History / International Museum of Puppets

6) Musée Gadagne: Museum of Lyon History / International Museum of Puppets

As the famous 19th-century puppet Guignol was created in Lyon, it is only natural that there should be a museum dedicated to him and his fellow-creatures.

There actually are two twin museums housed in the same Gadagne Building: the Museum of Lyon History opened in 1921 and is an interesting, educational museum, dealing with the period from de Gaul’s to the present day.

You will learn all about the city of Lyon through the 80,000 items that take you through the daily lives of the people: their economic and social lives, religion and the planning and growth of Lyon over the ages. The items include objets d’art, silver and gold plated artefacts, furniture, drawings, paintings and plans of the city, set out in 31 permanent exhibition rooms.

The Puppet Museum opened in 1950 and started out with a small collection based on the Guignol puppet. Closed between 2003 and 2009 for major renovations and up-dating, the museum now boasts of over 2000 puppets from all over the world.

The puppets now have nine rooms for themselves, each equipped with multimedia for watching short plays and pedagogic slide shows that explain all about the techniques of puppeteering and its links with other forms of art. Contemporary puppeteers give interesting lectures at certain times during the day, and there is an audio guide in various languages.

On top of the building, there is a small theatre that seats 138 spectators. Puppet plays are put on at regular intervals to the delight of both adults and children.
7
Maison Thomassin (Thomassin House)

7) Maison Thomassin (Thomassin House)

When it comes to Thomassin House, standing proudly on Exchange Square, history doesn’t whisper on it - it practically clears its throat and begins a long story. This is one of the oldest buildings in the neighbourhood, and it has earned this title honestly.

Back in the Middle Ages, Exchange Square was the beating heart of Lyon’s textile trade. Three or four major fairs were held here every year, attracting merchants from France, Italy, and the Netherlands. Deals were struck, fortunes were made, and among the families counting their profits were the Thomassins.

In 1493, they purchased a house that had already been standing on the square since 1298 - because when you’re doing well in business, you don’t always build new, you upgrade. The Thomassins gave the building a Gothic makeover, adding those elegant vertical lines and decorative details that still catch the eye today.

Later times could not resist leaving their own mark either. The 18th and 20th centuries brought further renovations, including first-floor mullioned windows topped with a frieze of the Zodiac signs - a kind of medieval astrology meeting merchant ambition... Twin bays of windows were framed with delicate trefoil arches, and above them rose a pointed ogival arch displaying carved coats of arms.

Looking closely, you can't help spotting the symbols of power: the Dauphin - literally a dolphin, representing the heir to the French throne - alongside the emblem of King Charles VIII, shown as a lily flower, and Queen Anne of Brittany, symbolized by an ermine. It’s almost like a stone résumé carved into the façade, announcing connections, loyalty, and prestige.

And yet, for all the architectural drama outside, the real treasure is hidden within. What survives from the original 13th-century house is a painted wooden ceiling on the first floor, uncovered during renovations in 1964. Decorated with the coats of arms of Saint Louis, his mother Blanche de Castille, and the Fuers - the building’s earliest known owners - it is one of the oldest surviving painted ceilings in France.

So, as you stand here, remember: this old house is a witness to trade fairs, royal symbols, ambitious merchants, and centuries of careful reinvention - all layered behind one very confident façade.
8
Auberge du Gouvernement

8) Auberge du Gouvernement

The Old Lyon is fascinating with its traboules and historic buildings; while you are visiting this area don’t miss l’Auberge du Gouvernement.

The building had long been an inn called l’Auberge de Saint Christophe but when the governors of the city were housed in a town house on the same square in 1512, it changed its name. The town house was pulled down in 1730, but the inn continued to be frequented until the 19th century; the coaches bound for Auvergne and the south-west left from there.

The Gothic-style building has five floors and two bays. It has mullioned windows with small columns and the heads of mythological animals at their bases. Most of these heads are now missing, but a few have survived.

The entrance to the inner courtyard is fronted today by a railed gate which replaced the stout timber door, but parts of the framework remain embedded in the walls. The inner courtyard is reached by a short slope cut into the stone. The archway is in the shape of a basket handle with a double-cross ogival vaulted ceiling and has a mermaid and a griffon at its base

The courtyard is linked by galleries and two traboules. When you have passed under an ogival-vaulted loggia you will find yourself in the raised courtyard (the former stables were beneath it), where you will see more mullioned windows, a door bearing an ancient coat of arms, and in one corner a well in the form of an open scallop shell.
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Galerie Mazarini

9) Galerie Mazarini

Mazarini Gallery, founded in 1988, is a renowned art gallery situated in the historic Old Town of Lyon. This gallery specializes in a wide collection of old drawings, paintings, and watercolors, dating from the 16th to the mid-20th century. It is well-known for its extensive assortment of artworks, featuring pieces from various prestigious art schools, including the French, Italian, North, and English Schools, with a particular focus on those from Lyon's School.

The gallery takes pride in regularly offering a diverse range of artworks to a broad clientele, including private collectors and esteemed institutions, both in Europe and the United States. Mazarini Gallery is not only a destination for art enthusiasts and collectors but also serves as a hub for cultural exchange and education. It hosts one or two major exhibitions every year, accompanied by the publication of detailed catalogs that provide insights into the featured artworks and artists.

Beyond its role as an art curator and exhibitor, Mazarini Gallery provides expert appraisal services. Individuals interested in obtaining a professional opinion and valuation of their old drawings are encouraged to visit the gallery with photographs of their artworks. The gallery is always eager to acquire new pieces, showing particular interest in both masterpieces and anonymous drawings and watercolors from the 16th to the early 20th century. This openness to a wide range of art pieces reflects Galerie Mazarini's commitment to preserving and celebrating the diverse history of art.
10
Ancien Palais de Justice (The Former Palace of Justice)

10) Ancien Palais de Justice (The Former Palace of Justice)

If buildings could clear their throats before speaking, the Former Palace of Justice would not need to - it already makes its point the moment you see those 24 Corinthian columns lined up like a very disciplined jury.

Commanding and symmetrical, it stands on the ground that has dealt with legal matters since the 14th century. The structure you see today was completed in 1842 by architect Victor Baltard, who clearly believed that justice should look solid, orderly, and just a little intimidating. Rectangular in form and arranged around a central courtyard, it remains one of France’s finest Neo-classical statements.

Step inside, and you enter the grand “Hall of Lost Steps,” though nothing feels exactly lost about it. This was the waiting area where lawyers paced, witnesses rehearsed their testimonies, and tension quietly built before a judge called a name. Tall marble columns rise toward vaulted ceilings, stucco details frame the space, and three cupolas allow light to filter down with appropriate drama. The red-carpeted grand staircase sweeps upward to the upper chambers and visitors’ gallery, while a smaller set of marble steps leads to the Assize Court.

Today, only this court and the Court of Appeal still operate here. In earlier decades, the palace witnessed trials that shaped modern French history. The most famous took place in 1987, when Klaus Barbie - the Nazi officer known as the “Butcher of Lyon” - was tried and sentenced to life imprisonment for crimes against humanity. Thus, the courtroom became not just a legal setting, but a place of national reckoning.

Even if legal procedure is not your usual travel interest, this building offers something more than courtrooms. It represents centuries of civic authority layered onto one site - medieval courts replaced by 19th-century grandeur, all facing the river with quiet confidence. Take a moment to stand before those columns, imagine the footsteps echoing across the marble floors, and consider how architecture can turn law into theatre, where justice arrives with classical proportions...
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