Al-Attarine Souk (Spice Market), Fes

As you ease your way along Talaa Kebira—also known as Tarafine Street—your nose gets there before you do. Cinnamon, cumin, cloves… the whole spice rack seems to have staged a quiet takeover of the air. That’s your cue that Al-Attarine Souk, the Spice Market, is just ahead.

Once the height of refined shopping, it now runs on delightful contradiction: brass lamps and teapots share space with mirrors, sunglasses, and those irresistibly tacky souvenirs you swear you’re “just browsing.” Duck down a narrow side lane and—surprise—you’re suddenly surrounded by a full colour spectrum of babouches, the soft leather slippers politely suggesting you abandon sensible footwear altogether.

This market has been at it for a long time. It dates back to the early Idrisid period, around the 9th and 10th centuries, which means it has survived fires, floods, and several enthusiastic attempts at modern “improvement”—usually involving concrete. The good news is that the recent restoration work—in 2016 and 2017—brought back much of its old charm, with wooden roofing, fresh tilework, and a few practical fixes that don’t scream “21st century” quite so loudly.

Now, for a basic rule of Moroccan market logic—learn it once, use it everywhere. Wherever there’s a major mosque, there’s quality shopping nearby.

Case in point: wander around Kairaouine Mosque and University, and watch the merchandise quietly level up. Spices fade into silks, everyday goods give way to embroidery, and suddenly you’re face-to-face with elaborately stitched takchita kaftans. Technically made for weddings and celebrations— frankly, they're just as perfect for any fancy occasion, be it just an evening of sofa time, binge-watching your favorite TV shows...