Jumba La Mtwana (Big House of Slaves), Mombasa

The archaeological site of Jumba La Mtwana is a testament to Swahili history and culture. Meaning 'Big House of Slaves' in Swahili, locals speculate that this area once served as a significant slave port during the 14th or 15th century. Despite its lesser-known status compared to the renowned Gede ruins, Jumba La Mtwana boasts its own allure with remnants of buildings, exposed foundations, and ancient baobab trees hinting at its past glory.

Visitors to the site can explore a small museum dedicated to Swahili culture and enjoy a meal at a nearby seaside restaurant. Guided tours, led by the custodian for a modest gratuity, offer insights into the area's history and significance. Accessible via a 3km road, 2km north of Mtwapa Creek bridge, the ruins beckon with tales of lost treasures, pirates, and abandoned cities as the evening light casts a mesmerizing glow.

While the presence of slave trading remains uncertain, historical records indicate the exchange of commodities such as turtle shell, rhino horn, and ambergris at Big House of Slaves. Chinese artifacts, evidenced by fragments of dishes embedded in the building floors, speak to the area's vibrant trade connections. Notable features include upper-wall holes for mangrove support beams, numerous cisterns reflecting Swahili emphasis on hygiene, and the enigmatic 'House of Many Doors', believed to be a guesthouse. The nearby Mosque by the Sea offers a picturesque vista of the Indian Ocean, accompanied by an Arabic inscription reminding visitors of life's inevitable passage.

A stroll through the site reveals a stela near the graveyard, adorned with the sobering inscription, 'Every Soul Shall Taste Death', alongside a small hole symbolizing the journey to paradise.