Nativity Cathedral, Chisinau (must see)

The Nativity Cathedral is one of those landmarks that, for me, really defines central Chișinău. Situated in the middle of Cathedral Square, its clean classical lines and large dome give it a formal, almost imperial presence, though the building itself is surprisingly restrained.

The cathedral was built between 1830 and 1836, at a time when Chișinău was reshaped as the capital of the Russian-ruled province of Bessarabia. The idea had originally been promoted by Metropolitan Gavriil Bănulescu-Bodoni, whose name now bears the street bordering the Cathedral Park on the west. (By the way, if you’d like to buy Moldovan alcohol, or have a bite of local cuisine, you can find both in rich supply on Bănulescu-Bodoni Street. If you just stand in front of the cathedral, turn left and head straight along the alley toward the pedestrian crossing. There, on the opposite side of the street, you'll find the Milestii Mici winery shop, Barza Alba brandy outlet, and La Placinta restaurant serving authentic Moldovan food.)

Now, back to the Cathedral: its Empire-style design was done by Avraam Melnikov, one of the leading architects of the Russian Empire in the 19th century. To erect such a grand structure on muddy soil, he enhanced the foundation with more than 5,000 oak trunks. Once you know that, it becomes easier to appreciate just how carefully balanced this building is.

The cathedral itself also had a difficult time in the 20th century. First damaged by the 1940 earthquake, it was damaged again during World War II. Under Soviet rule, religious services eventually ceased, and the building was converted into an exhibition hall. After Moldova became independent, the cathedral was returned to the Orthodox Church and reopened for worship in the 1990s.

There is also a curious broadcasting connection here that I find rather interesting. Back in 1939, the official inauguration of Radio Basarabia, Chișinău’s first radio station, included a live transmission of the liturgy from this cathedral.

If it's open, step inside, and you’ll notice how different the atmosphere feels from the monumental exterior. The interior is more intimate, brightly lit, and centered on the iconostasis and Orthodox religious decoration.

Admission is normally free. Even if you don’t go inside, I’d still suggest spending a few minutes in the square outside. Here, the cathedral, the bell tower, and the nearby Triumphal Arch together form one of Chișinău’s most recognizable historic ensembles.