Triumphal Arch, Chisinau (must see)

Standing here in the heart of Chișinău, it is hard to miss the Triumphal Arch, or the Holy Gates as it's known locally. That second name comes from its role as the ceremonial entrance to the cathedral complex behind it. For those who live here, this is one of those landmarks that has always been part of the city’s central image.

If you’re facing it from the Great National Assembly Square, with the Government House behind you (just across Ștefan cel Mare Boulevard), directly beyond the Arch, you can see Cathedral Park and, farther ahead, the Nativity Cathedral.

The Arch was completed in the 19th century and commemorated the Russian victory in the Russo-Turkish War of 1828-29. It stands about 13 meters high and has a compact, almost square appearance. It may seem rather modest if you’re thinking of the great triumphal arches of Paris or Rome, but here in Chișinău, its proportions fit the surrounding square surprisingly well.

Walk a little closer and look at the lower section. Four massive pylons support the structure, decorated with columns and capitals inspired by the Corinthian order. Above them is the simpler upper tier, where you can also notice the clock. Traditionally, it strikes each quarter of an hour.

There’s an interesting story behind this Arch. After the victorious war against the Ottoman Empire, captured Turkish cannons were melted down to cast bells for the nearby Nativity Cathedral. The largest of them weighed roughly six and a half tons. It proved too large for the Cathedral’s belfry, so instead, they decided to build a Triumphal Arch where the giant bell could be fitted.

The Arch's clock has had an eventful history of its own. Its original mechanism was brought from Odessa, and in 1849 a powerful storm tore away its dial. Eventually replaced, it was once again damaged during World War II.

You can’t normally climb the Arch, so its details are best appreciated from ground level. And if you happen to return in the evening, it’s well worth another look when the monument is illuminated, the traffic feels a little less dominant, and Cathedral Park is usually much livelier with live music.