Place aux Oignons (Onions Square), Lille

The Onion Square lies at the foot of Lille’s former castle mound, where the fortress of the counts of Flanders once stood. According to a traditional explanation, its name developed from the Latin word dominium, associated with the nearby stronghold, through dominion and eventually oignons, the French word for onions. No trace of the original wooden fortress survives.

The square is lined with houses dating mainly from the late 17th and early 18th centuries. They were originally occupied by artisan weavers, who installed their looms in attics or in cellars where the humidity could help with the preparation of textile fibers. As traditional weaving declined and mechanized textile production expanded during the 19th century, the houses became crowded accommodation for workers employed in nearby factories.

By the 1970s, many of the buildings were severely dilapidated, and some were occupied by squatters. Structural reinforcement began in 1976 in preparation for a larger restoration project. Between 1985 and 1990, the houses were renovated or partially reconstructed in their original style. Today, this small pedestrian square is surrounded by restaurants and traditional Flemish-style cafés.

Au Petit Vieux, at number 5, is a traditional Flemish tavern serving regional cuisine and beers from northern France in an informal setting. Nearby, Au Vieux de la Vieille, at the corner of Rue des Vieux-Murs on the southwestern side of the square, is known for Flemish dishes such as beer-braised beef stew or Welsh rarebit, a rich dish of bread covered with melted cheese. Those seeking something different can try In Bocca al Lupo, an Italian restaurant opposite Au Vieux de la Vieille. The terraces are particularly lively at lunchtime and in the evening, when Onion Square becomes one of the most inviting gathering places in Old Lille.