La Chascona (Pablo Neruda House), Santiago (must see)

Sitting at the foot of San Cristóbal Hill, La Chascona, one of Pablo Neruda’s three famous houses in Chile, is easy to recognize for its appearance - climbing up the hillside in several irregular levels. Neruda started building it in 1953 for Matilde Urrutia, his then secret love and later his wife. The name La Chascona (which is the Chilean Spanish for "scruffy woman") refers to Matilde’s thick, tousled hair.

As you enter, the first thing you notice is that this is not a conventional house. Oddly placed windows and a maze-like layout, divided into sections at different levels, connected by terraces, narrow paths, and winding staircases, reveal a brilliant, creative mind behind this flamboyant and, at the same time, elegant property.

Begin with the bar and dining room. The bar includes a counter taken from an old French ship, reflecting Neruda’s fascination with the sea. Nearby, the dining room is easy to recognize by its long table and slightly ship-like atmosphere. Before leaving, look toward the far end for a small doorway leading to a narrow spiral staircase and an upper bedroom.

From here, continue outside and climb the stairs to the next section. In the main sitting room, look for Diego Rivera’s portrait of Matilde Urrutia. Examine her hair closely, and you may notice the hidden profile of Neruda, a reference to their once-secret relationship.

Continue uphill through the terraces toward the upper rooms and library. Along the way, you will encounter another bar and many of Neruda’s collections. These include paintings, folk art, wooden carvings and unusual decorative objects.

The library reveals Neruda’s love of books, art and collecting. Rather than feeling carefully formal, the rooms appear highly personal, shaped around objects that attracted him.

La Chascona also witnessed a darker period of Chilean history. The property was vandalized around the time of the 1973 military coup that overthrew President Salvador Allende. Matilde later restored the house and lived here until her death in 1985.

Tip:
Use the audio guide. The property's unusual layout can otherwise be difficult to follow, and the commentary helps explain the rooms, artworks, and personal objects you see along the way. Also, watch the short video before the tour, as you won't be able to see it after.