Fontana del Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune), Bologna (must see)

Standing between Neptune Square and Main Square, beside the medieval King Enzo Palace, the Fountain of Neptune is one of Bologna’s most recognizable Renaissance monuments. It was created between 1563 and 1566 after part of the existing city block was cleared to provide a suitably spacious setting. Architect Tommaso Laureti designed the fountain, while its elaborate bronze figures were made by Giambologna, the Flemish-born sculptor originally named Jean Boulogne, who developed much of his career in Florence. This ambitious commission helped establish his reputation as one of the leading sculptors of the late Renaissance.

Direct your gaze up to the top level of the monument to inspect the main figure. At the center rises the colossal figure of Neptune, affectionately known to Bolognese residents as "the Giant.'' The Roman god of the sea stands in a commanding pose above a basin faced with Verona marble, extending one hand as though calming the waters beneath him. The image was intended as a political allegory: just as Neptune ruled the seas, Pope Pius IV claimed authority over Bologna and the wider territories of the Church.

Next up, shift your focus downward to the base and perimeter of the stone pedestal. Walk around the fountain to examine its lively supporting figures. Four cherubs represent the winds, while four bronze female figures, often described as nereids or sirens, sit astride dolphins and spout water from their breasts. They traditionally symbolize four major rivers known to Europeans at the time—the Ganges, Nile, La Plata, and Danube—and therefore four parts of the known world.

A popular local legend concerns Neptune’s anatomy. Giambologna was reportedly prevented from making one feature of the statue as prominent as he wished, so he created an optical illusion instead. Stand on the specially marked paving stone near the entrance to Salaborsa Library and look toward Neptune from behind: from this carefully chosen angle, the extended thumb appears as a phallic projection from the figure’s lower body.

The fountain is best appreciated by circling it slowly, observing the contrast between Neptune’s solemn authority and the playful cherubs, dolphins, and water-spouting figures below.