Les Schtroumpfs (Smurf Buildings), Geneva

Built between 1982 and 1984 by Swiss architects Christian Hunziger, Robert Frei, and Georges Berthoud, this housing complex looks as though someone gave geometry a day off. Inspired by the playful imagination of Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, the buildings twist and bend with irregular angles, rounded walls, colorful details, and wrought-iron balconies that seem determined to avoid a straight line at all costs. It feels less like a standard apartment block, and more like architecture decided to loosen its tie and have some fun...

Locals quickly gave the complex a nickname: the “Schtroumpf” buildings. “Schtroumpf” is the French word for Smurf, borrowed from the Belgian comic world of tiny blue creatures living in whimsical mushroom-shaped homes. One glance at these playful façades and the comparison suddenly makes perfect sense. The buildings appear almost hand-sculpted, as if they grew naturally rather than being carefully planned on an architect’s drafting table.

The complex itself includes around 170 subsidized apartments, along with offices, a small theatre, medical practices, a café, and even a pole dance studio—because apparently ordinary amenities would not quite match the spirit of the place... It is a lively little micro-neighbourhood tucked into the city rather than simply a row of residences.

While the interiors are not open to visitors, the exterior alone makes the detour worthwhile. Wander around slowly, notice the uneven windows and curved corners, and enjoy one of Geneva’s most unexpected architectural surprises. Also, if you happen to visit on a Thursday, nearby Grottes (or Caves) Square hosts a local market with an equally relaxed and eclectic atmosphere.