Peters Brauhaus, Cologne

Peters Brauhaus, just off Alter Markt in Cologne’s Old Town, is a good place to experience Kölsch the traditional way. This brewpub opened in 1994, reviving the much older Zum Kranz brewing tradition at this address, which was first recorded in Cologne’s beer-tax records as early as 1544.

The Peters beer story has a separate origin in the nearby town of Monheim, where Peter Josef Peters received permission to brew in 1847. Monheim’s brewing tradition stretches back even further, to 1262—a date still inscribed on the cylindrical beer glasses, known as a Stange, in which Peters Kölsch is served fresh from the tap.

The beer itself is pale gold, light and crisp, with a gentle malt character, a slight fruitiness and a mild hop bitterness. At around 4.8 percent alcohol, it is designed to be easy-drinking rather than heavy or intensely bitter. The original Peters brewery in Monheim closed in 2004, so Peters Kölsch is no longer brewed there, but is made entirely in Cologne.

Peters Brauhaus is not really a place for a large flight of different house beers—the focus here is very much on Peters Kölsch. But the drinks list does include other alternatives like a non-alcoholic malt drink, alcohol-free beer, and a grapefruit wheat-beer drink. There is also a good selection of local-style schnapps and herbal liqueurs, if you want to finish your meal with something stronger.

For food, you can start small with something designed specifically to accompany Kölsch. A Halve Hahn may sound like “half a chicken,” but it is actually a rye roll served with Dutch cheese, butter, and onions. Kölsche Kaviar, or “Cologne caviar,” is another playful local name—this time for blood sausage served with a roll, butter, and onions. You can also order minced raw pork, known as Mett, on a small rye roll.

For something hearty, one of the more interesting house dishes is Peters Bierfleisch—slow-braised beef served in a dark, spicy sauce made with Peters Kölsch, accompanied by red cabbage and dumplings.

So, rather than coming here to sample a long list of craft beers, think of Peters Brauhaus as a chance to experience Cologne’s traditional combination of Kölsch, small glasses, continuous refills, and filling Rhineland food—preferably beginning with a fresh Stange and something unmistakably local from the menu.