Granada Beyond the Alhambra, Granada, Spain

For most visitors, Granada begins and ends with the Alhambra, where carved stones speak in calligraphic verses, and the water displays of the peaceful fountains reply—a quiet dialogue under the orange blossoms of its Garden of Eden.

But step beyond its adorned walls, enchanting gardens, and refreshing fountains, and you will find a city still whispering secrets. Here, water flows silently under your feet, you can bathe like the Nasrid nobility once did, and let each tapa tell its own story of mixed cultures, hardships, and unique flavors.

Granada’s foundation is not stone or mortar, but water. Water is what makes the Alhambra and the enchanting gardens of the Generalife possible, and it is omnipresent on the hill of the most famous monument of Islamic architecture in the West.

This has not always been the case. Prior to the arrival of the Muslims, the Sabica Hill where the Alhambra now proudly dominates Granada, just hosted the ruins of an old Roman fortress—where today’s Alcazaba stands—as there was no water, and the city had developed on the opposite hills. ...... (follow the instructions below for accessing the rest of this article).