Edinburgh is a busy city, but even here, Scotland doesn’t let you forget its wild origins. To the east of Edinburgh Castle, you will find Arthur’s Seat, a testimony of the ancient land.

About 350 million years ago this main peak of a cluster of hills was an active volcano. During the last Ice Age two million years ago, a huge glacier that moved slowly across the land from west to east eroded the volcano, which was by that time, extinct. Located in Holyrood Park, Arthur’s Seat today is a favourite place for hill walkers as it is relatively easy to climb and you have great views of the city from the top.

The peak’s name comes from a corruption of “Ard-na-Said” which translates roughly as “height of arrows”, although legend likes to claim that this was once the site of Camelot and Arthur’s Round Table. There are remains of old forts on the top of the peak, probably built in the Iron Age by the Votadini, who settled here until after Roman times.

An ancient tradition suggests that if a young girl washes her face in the dew here on May Day, she will become beautiful. The peak today is jealously guarded by the population and no building is allowed here. It is a natural habitat for several wild animals, including foxes, squirrels, weasels and badgers, and for some rather rare species of butterflies.

In 1836, seventeen tiny coffins containing wooden figures were found in a cave on the peak. This led to speculation about the site being used for witch’s rites, but this has never been proved. The coffins and their contents remain a mystery.

Why You Should Visit:
Ruins of an old church, hiking trails, fresh air all around, all on a lovely dormant volcano!

Tip:
Go early in the morning to catch the light over the city and to avoid crowds.
Bring water, snacks, comfortable (closed-toe) shoes, and a light windbreaker too, because it's gusty at the top.
Plan your route carefully, as there are multiple routes up, some more direct and steeper, some more leisurely and meandering.

Shopping and sightseeing in the Royal Mile can be tiring, so if you don’t feel like having lunch in a crowded pub or restaurant, grab a packed lunch or pick up a sandwich, and sneak off to Dunbar’s Close Garden. Tucked near the Canongate Kirkyard, this hidden gem is one of those places that makes you feel like you’ve just fallen through a medieval trapdoor.

Dunbar’s Close is one of about 80 medieval alleys still threading their way through the Old Town. At the end of it lies a garden that feels like it was designed for time travel. Truly a secret garden, many locals don’t even know it exists, which means you can enjoy your lunch here in peace.

The garden is surrounded by high, ancient stone walls shutting out the noise. The plot is long and rather narrow, with three-quarters of an acre laid out in a proper 17th-century style, featuring gravel paths and beds of herbs, shrubs, and flowers neatly bordered by ting hedges. Conical topiary points the way, while mature fig and sycamore trees lean in to offer a bit of shade over stone benches-perfect for a quiet pause or some light sandwich meditation.

The garden’s story adds another layer. It was created by Sir Patrick Geddes, a visionary biologist who dreamed of filling Edinburgh with pocket gardens like this. Sadly, he passed away shortly after Dunbar’s Close Garden was completed. By the 1970s, the place had gone wild from neglect.

Luckily, around that time, the Mushroom Trust-a charity promoting the creation of urban green spaces-took over the garden and asked landscape architect Seamus Filor to bring it back to life. In 1977, the Trust gifted the restored garden to the city, and by 1978, it was open to the public. So now, whenever you need a break from tartan overload while in Edinburgh, you’ve got your own secret garden waiting...

If you're meandering down the Royal Mile and wondering where to get your history fix with a side of scandal, the Museum of Edinburgh is your spot. Housed in the delightfully crooked 16th-century Huntly House-once the home of the city’s hammer-wielding Guild of Hammermen-this place is Edinburgh’s memory palace, packed with everything from Roman relics to rogue biographies.

Inside, you’ll find numerous silverware that practically glows with civic pride, glassware engraved just down the road in Canongate, some pottery that’s almost too pretty to have survived Scottish winters, and a Sedan chair that reminds us how people once got carried away-literally. There are also clocks so stately they make your smartwatch feel wildly inadequate. And don’t miss the costume corner, where you're invited to play dress-up through the ages. Georgian elegance? Victorian gloom? Just pick your century.

Among the many treasures, you’ll stumble across fragments from a 1st-century Roman settlement dug up in Cramond-yes, the Romans beat the tourists to this small village north-west of Edinburgh by about 2,000 years. You’ll also lay eyes on the original National Covenant (that’s serious ink), James Craig’s neatly sketched vision for the New Town, and even Greyfriars Bobby’s food bowl and collar-proof that loyalty earns you legend status in this city.

There is also a “rogues’ gallery” of sorts, where Edinburgh’s darker side grins back at you. Meet Deacon Brodie, respectable tradesman by day, burglar by night-basically Jekyll and Hyde, with better tailoring. And don’t forget Burke and Hare, the notorious body snatchers who supplied fresh corpses to Dr. Knox of the Medicine University, no questions asked...

So, yes, the Museum of Edinburgh has all the drama, dignity, and delightful weirdness this city’s history has to offer-and then some...

Calton Hill, located in the heart of Edinburgh, extends beyond the eastern terminus of Princes Street and is part of the city's UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a popular subject for photography and art, both offering scenic vistas of the city and being featured in various depictions of it.

The Scottish Government has its headquarters on Calton Hill, specifically at Saint Andrew's House, situated on the steep southern slope of the hill. Nearby, at the base of the hill, you'll find significant landmarks like the Scottish Parliament Building and Holyrood Palace. Additionally, Calton Hill boasts several iconic monuments and structures, including the National Monument, the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, the old Royal High School, the Robert Burns Monument, the Political Martyrs' Monument, and the City Observatory.

Calton Hill hosts various events throughout the year, with the most significant being the Beltane Fire Festival occurring annually on April 30th, drawing a crowd of over 12,000 attendees. Additionally, the Dussehra Hindu Festival is celebrated on Calton Hill at the beginning of October, and the Samhuinn Fire Festival takes place there at the end of October. Notably, Calton Hill has served as a filming location for movies like "Sunshine on Leith," where Davy and Yvonne perform "Misty Blue," "Death Defying Acts" featuring Houdini, and "Greyfriars Bobby," offering scenic views of the city.

Edinburgh’s Calton Hill is a fascinating place to visit, replete with fine buildings and monuments. Some of these monuments commemorate famous people, others – events, but the Dugald Stewart Monument is a mystery for many to this very day. Just who was this Dugald Stewart and who had a monument raised in his name?

To answer the second part of the question – the monument was commissioned by the Royal Society of Edinburgh in 1831. It was designed by William Henry Playfair, who modelled it on the Choragic Monument of Lysicrate in Athens, and is one of the many Greek Revival structures in the Calton Hill area.

Answer to the first part of the question – Dugald Stewart was a Scottish Enlightenment Philosopher who was responsible for the predominance of Scottish Philosophy in Europe at the early 19th century. He held the chair of Moral Philosophy (Ethics) at the University of Edinburgh, from 1785 to 1810, and although his ideals are considered out of date today, and he is mostly forgotten, in his day he was highly respected for his views.

The Scottish Enlightment Movement, of which Stewart was an important member, believed that man, guided by reason and virtue, could bring about great changes for the better in nature and society.

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. It holds the most important collection of portraits of Scottish personalities in the UK, and is also home to the Scottish National Photo Collection.

The gallery is housed in a Gothic Revival edifice, commissioned by the owner of The Scotsman newspaper, John Ritchie Findlay, and was built in 1890 from red sandstone, being the first building in the world constructed especially for the purpose of being a portrait gallery. It was renovated in 2009 and reopened in 2011.

Here, you will find over 3,000 paintings and sculptures, 25,000 drawings and prints, and over 38,000 photos. The collection begins in the Renaissance period and features the clergy, notable nobles and royalty. The oldest portrait on display is that of James IV of Scotland, painted in 1507.

There are two portraits of Mary, Queen of Scots, but they were painted from memory after her death in 1587. Several other paintings, representing scenes from her life, were executed in the 19th century.

The collection continues to the present day and contains portraits of Billy Connelly, the famous Scottish stand-up comedian, and Robbie Coltrane, the actor best known for his role of Hagrid in the Harry Potter films.

Why You Should Visit:
This baroque building's interior is just lovely and special.
Free admission, good café with a wide range of food, free wifi and toilets.
The well-curated portraits/photography collections give an excellent history of Scotland.

Tip:
Don't miss the lovely pebble mosaic in the charming adjacent courtyard (on the right when facing the gallery entrance).
The entrance hall is also very detailed – make sure you take a look at the ceiling.

The Dome is a historic building located on George Street in the New Town area. It is categorized as a Grade A listed building and currently serves as a combination of a bar, restaurant, and nightclub, managed by the Caledonian Heritable group. This structure was originally constructed in 1847 to serve as the headquarters for the Commercial Bank of Scotland, and it was designed by the architect David Rhind in a Graeco-Roman architectural style.

Interestingly, The Dome is situated on the site where the old Physicians' Hall used to stand. The Physicians' Hall was the offices of the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh and was built in the 18th century according to the design by architect James Craig, who was also the planner of the New Town. When The Dome was built, parts of the frontage of the Physicians' Hall were incorporated into the new structure, including the impressive Corinthian columns.

During the time of its construction, The Dome represented a significant architectural shift in Scotland, reflecting the emergence of capitalism. David Rhind, the architect, drew inspiration from ancient Greek society to capture the ideology of the era in his design for the Commercial Bank building. Rhind emphasized both societal values and aesthetics. In April 1847, The Scotsman newspaper praised the building for its "rich and massive architecture" and "gorgeous" interior decoration.

One notable architectural feature of The Dome is its use of natural light, thanks to the inclusion of a glass dome. The building also maximizes space with a spacious central lobby. While George Street boasts several Greek Revival-style buildings today, The Dome stands out due to its striking pediment and its long and storied history.

For all art lovers-yes, even the ones who can’t tell a Botticelli from a biscotti (an Italian almond biscuit for those unaware)-the Scottish National Gallery is a must-do cultural pitstop. Perched elegantly on the Mound right next to the Royal Scottish Academy, this temple of fine art has been dazzling eyeballs since 1859. Back then, it was a bit of a packed house: the gallery, the academy, and even the Portrait Gallery all cozied up under one neoclassical roof. Eventually, the Portrait Gallery moved to its new location, and by 1906, the academy shuffled next door too-because elbow room really matters when you’re hanging a Titian...

The gallery was entirely renovated in 1912. Today it boasts a collection of over 30,000 artworks, featuring both Scottish and European art-from Renaissance to Romanticism, with a few moody Impressionists thrown in for flair. Among them are Bassano, Botticelli, Bernini, Cézanne, Degas, da Vinci, and... deep breath... El Greco, Titian, and Tiepolo, too. Want something bolder? Don’t miss Gauguin’s “Vision of the Sermon.” And if you fancy some sculptural marble drama, Canova’s “Three Graces” has you covered.

The gallery also houses the Research Library-one of the world's finest reference libraries-which is a treasure trove of over 50,000 books, journals, and oddities spanning seven centuries from the 1300s. Meanwhile, the Western Link connects the gallery to the academy via a sleek underground space with a lecture theatre, a classy café, and a shop full of irresistible arty bits. Plus, there's an interactive IT Gallery, where, using touch-screens, you can swipe your way through the gallery’s entire collection like a very refined dating app.

So, whenever you feel like getting up close with a da Vinci sketch and still having time for tea, check out this place. It’s free to enter the permanent exhibits, and the cozy layout makes for a perfect rainy-day escape.

Insider tip:
Make sure you visit both the main Gallery and the Academy behind it.
Note the grand Turner watercolor exhibition that goes on show every January-some truly wonderful insights into his travels around Europe. It’s like Europe through the eyes of a genius-with less fog and more flair...

Smack in the middle of the Royal Mile, St Giles’ Cathedral-otherwise known as the High Kirk (or High Church) of Edinburgh-isn't one to be missed. The original building went up in the 12th century but didn’t survive a nasty fire-only the central pillars lived to tell the tale. The replacement was built in 1385. Over the years, it had numerous chapels added-known as aisles-resulting in a kind of charming architectural chaos. At one point, the church had over 50 side altars, like a medieval supermarket of holiness...

In 1466, St Giles’ became a collegiate church, which, in 1490, saw the now-iconic, crown-shaped lantern tower completed. During the Reformation, in 1560, things got a bit dramatic. Most of the church’s treasures vanished-stolen, sold, or just spirited away-including its star relic: Saint Giles’ withered arm and hand, complete with a diamond ring on one skeletal finger (macabre bling at its finest...). In addition to that, the church was partitioned by walls into multiple preaching zones-a kind of Protestant “feng shui,” if you will...

Despite being called a cathedral, it only technically wore that title twice, briefly, during the 17th-century Bishop Wars. The statute of “High Kirk” remains its real claim to fame. A 19th-century restoration gave the church a glow-up-partitions were removed and several chapels pulled down. Among the surviving chapels, perhaps the most beautiful is the Thistle Chapel from 1911: a jaw-dropping High Gothic gem dripping in wood and stone carvings, fluttering heraldic banners, and a breathtaking, delicately carved vaulted ceiling.

Once here, look out for a bronze plaque to Robert Louis Stevenson, author of Treasure Island, in the Moray Aisle, a marble tribute to the dashing but doomed 1st Marquis of Montrose, in the Chapman Aisle, and another to his bitter rival, Archibald Campbell, the 1st Marquis of Argyll, in the Saint Eloi Aisle. Fun fact: these two, once the main signatories of the National Covenant in 1638 (the document signed to oppose attempts to impose Anglican religious practices on the Church of Scotland), became sworn enemies towards the end of their lives. Edinburgh drama, anyone?

Aside from all that, the place is absolutely gorgeous, packed to the rim with stained glass beauty. You’ll walk out with neck cramp from all the ceiling admiration-and it’ll be worth it.

Pro tips:
Entry is free or by donation, but if you’re planning a photo shoot, prepare to fork over £2 for a "permit".
Best to get onto a tour, as there's much you could miss just wandering on your own. Also, if you're feeling adventurous, take the rooftop tour (worth £6).
And yes-don't miss a cozy café downstairs that serves tasty bites. Praise be!

Today, it may be hard to imagine, but Edinburgh’s City Chambers, the official meeting place for the City Council and its predecessors, originally wasn’t even built for politics. Indeed, back in the 18th century, it was meant to be the Royal Exchange. Designed by John Adam, with some modifications by John Fergus, the project saw several Edinburgh’s closes-those tight, shadowy medieval alleyways-incorporated into the site. Instead of ruthlessly demolishing them, they simply sealed them off, creating a hidden underground world that only many years later was reopened to the public as “The Real Mary King’s Close.” Ghost stories included at no extra charge...

Out front, things look stately enough: a courtyard opening onto the High Street, with elegant arches that almost feel like a stage set. Right in the centre stands a notable statue by John Steell of Alexander the Great wrestling his famously feisty horse, Bucephalus. You don’t need to know your ancient history to appreciate the drama-it’s basically man versus beast in bronze...

But step closer, and you’ll see the Chambers aren’t just about old council business. A little Hollywood glamour crept in thanks to the Edinburgh Award, which honours outstanding citizens who’ve made a lasting mark on the city. Recipients get their names on a plaque inside, and one very special winner left a magical trace behind.

That would be J.K. Rowling, who picked up the honour in 2008. As part of the ceremony, her hands were cast in bronze and set right here in the courtyard. Fans flock to press their palms into hers, hoping maybe some of that wizarding spark will rub off. In a building where hidden closes lie below, grand statues rise above, and Harry Potter’s creator left her literal handprint, Edinburgh City Chambers is as much a stage set as it is council hall.

Right off Chambers Street and sidling up to George IV Bridge, the National Museum of Scotland seems like an entire universe cleverly disguised as one building. As the country’s crown jewel of curiosity, it houses everything from ancient artefacts, science and technology to Elton John’s finest feathered fashion. Indeed, sequins and sarcophagi under one roof...

The museum, in its current all-in-one glory, came to life in 2006 when the Royal Museum and the Museum of Scotland decided to merge (believing they’d work better as roommates). Having linked internally by utilizing some repurposed storage space, they created the stunning Grand Gallery-a light-drenched cathedral of wonder, stretching from basement to rooftop. The vaulted Entrance Hall alone is a whopping 1,400 square metres of pure “whoa.”

Wandering into the Grand Gallery, you’re bound to find some big stuff-literally! Oversized treasures too large for the regular exhibits-like the 20-metre-tall Window on the World, a vertical buffet of 800+ oddities-camp out here in joyful disarray. On its sides, Scotland shows off its brainpower in the form of “Discoveries” made by local inventors.

It’s a feast for all ages and attention spans. One moment you’re peering at ancient Egyptian mummies (CT scans included, like historical X-ray vision, revealing everything that is hidden under their wrappings), and the next you’re staring at something extravagant that once belonged to a glam rock legend. The Natural History floor, meanwhile, is a dino-lover’s paradise, complete with extinct beasts and bones the size of furniture.

In 2011, they added 16 shiny new galleries, just to keep things fresh-resulting in over 8,000 original objects awaiting your awe. Bonus points is that the entry is completely free. So, you can marvel at the mysteries of the universe and still afford a snack from the on-site café & bistro, if you are feeling peckish or just want to take a break from exploring.

By far not a typical museum-but rather an “everythingium”-it’s a real treat both inside and out, especially following its hefty £47-million refurbishment and extension. Definitely more than just a place to learn-but a place to linger...

Top Tips:
Get there early. Start on the top floor and descend like an archaeologist of modern wonder. There are some great 'hands-on' exhibits, so take your time if you are with kids. And if you're feeling fancy, book a private guided tour. Just check ahead for any exhibits that may cost extra-they’re rare, and usually a bargain.

Edinburgh makes things easy for history buffs: just follow the soot-streaked stones of the Old Town and you’ll trip over ancient buildings in no time. One such relic is Greyfriars Church-an architectural overachiever that’s been around since the early 1600s and still manages to steal the show.

Work on the church began in 1602, and by 1630, it was officially consecrated, rising from the ruins of an abandoned Franciscan monastery and becoming one of the oldest buildings in the Old Town. Its name is a fashion nod to the original residents-monks in grey robes, otherwise known as the “Grey Friars.” Simple branding, eternal legacy...

In 1718, someone got the bright idea to divide the church with a wall-Old Greyfriars on one side, New Greyfriars on the other-because heaven forbid the Covenanters and Roman Catholics share pew space. Then, in 1845, the roof caught fire (presumably not from divine wrath), destroying much of the interior.

When the church was restored in the mid-19th century, they added stained-glass windows. Beautiful they were? Yes. Controversial? Also, yes-for it was the first time that such windows appeared in a Presbyterian church, and it caused a bit of a scandal. A little later, an organ was added, and once again the purists “clutched their pearls.” In 1929, they finally took down the dividing wall and made peace… at least architecturally.

Oh, and the adjoining graveyard-it's said to be haunted by the ghost of one “Bloody” George Mackenzie. A Lord Advocate responsible for the persecution of the Covenanters, his reputation is as bruised as his victims. They say that if he touches you, you’ll feel it-physically!-left with cuts and bruises... Sleep tight!

Still, nowadays, Greyfriars also doubles as an event venue and low-key fashion runway. It hosts exhibitions, lectures, and drama productions-all performed under those once-scandalous stained glass windows. The onsite museum showcases artifacts found in the area and recounts a comprehensive history of the Covenanters.

And for the wizarding crowd-just behind the Elephant House Café lies Greyfriars Kirkyard, where literary pilgrims flock to pay homage to tombstones that may-or may not-have inspired J.K. Rowling. Among those are Thomas Riddell (ring a bell, Voldemort fans?), Robert Potter, William McGonagall, and even names like Elizabeth Moodie and Margaret Louisa Scrymgeour Wedderburn, suspiciously close to Mad-Eye Moody and Rufus Scrimgeour (the Minister of Magic in the final Harry Potter book). As of August 2019, you can buy a handy Harry Potter-themed gravestone map; the proceeds from sales go toward graveyard upkeep-and probably a bit of Muggle curiosity management, too.

Also, visible from here is George Heriots School, reportedly the template for fictional Hogwarts...

If you're looking to shop, snack, or relax over a pint while in Edinburgh, the Grassmarket is undoubtedly your one-stop cobbled playground. Once the city’s bustling horse-and-cattle bazaar which drew crowds between 1477 and 1911, it also doubled as a top place for executions-because, apparently, back in the day, nothing did for the public entertainment more than hooves and hangings...

Keep an eye out for “The Shadow of the Gibbet”-the dark paving stones laid out in the form of a gallows near the Covenanter’s Monument. It’s a charmingly grim touch, in case you needed a reminder that this scenic square once served as the city’s unofficial “dead-end.” And over to one side of it stands the Bow Well that has been around since 1681.

According to legend, once upon a time, there was a woman named Maggie Dickson, a fishwife who made headlines by dying and... remarkably coming back again. Hanged right here for the alleged murder of her child, she stunned everyone when she unexpectedly woke up en route to the cemetery. Apparently, in those days, the “until dead” provision didn’t quite yet settle in the sentence proceedings (legal loophole of the day...). So, once hanged, her debt was considered paid and Maggie was set free. Today, you can toast her improbable resurrection at Maggie Dickson’s pub, conveniently located on the very spot where she was hanged but miraculously survived the ordeal.

Fast forward a few centuries and the Grassmarket swapped gallows for gastropubs. A formerly scruffy patch of the city, it became a magnet for students in the 1980s-likely lured by cheap beer and late-night kebabs. Nowadays gentrified, it’s all terraces, boutique shops, vintage finds, and indie charm.

Quirky, safe and interesting, this area is a great destination for those who need a regular change of scenery, complete with a variety of retail and dining opportunities to suit every wallet and taste, and enough character to fill a tartan suitcase.

Hot tip:
Check out Carnivàle Vintage for a wonderful selection of fun vintage clothing, Tasty Buns for pastry and coffee, Hula Juice Bar for guilt-free fuel, and Mary’s Milk Bar for glorious indulgence. And when you're done, wind your way up Victoria Street and onto the Royal Mile (further up)-because one eccentric shopping spree always deserves another...

Edinburgh Castle, looming large over the Scottish capital, is the second most visited attraction in the UK (after the Tower of London, which is still number one). The history of Scotland is deeply etched into its ancient stones, making it a timeline in fortress form.

Perched atop Castle Rock (a hardened basaltic plug from an extinct volcano eroded by glaciers), this area has been drawing humans since the 9th millennium BC. The first castle on the site was built in the 12th century by King David I. It remained a royal residence until 1603, when the monarchy packed up and moved to London-presumably for better weather and indoor plumbing...

Indeed, as a fortress, it was virtually impregnable, except for one major-geological-drawback: the basalt rock on which it stands doesn’t hold water (literally). The 28-meter-deep well inside the fortress was about as useful as a chocolate teapot during a siege. So, when the well ran dry, surrender-or dehydration-was the only choice for those inside.

The original castle was mostly destroyed during the Lang Siege of 1573. The only remainder from its early days is St. Margaret’s Chapel. By the 17th century, it had shifted from royal digs to military barracks, housing troops up to the 1920s.

Presently, the castle hosts the Scottish National War Memorial, the National War Museum, and enough regimental museums to keep military buffs busy till closing time. Don't miss the One O’Clock Gun, which is fired daily (except Sundays) at 1 PM with Swiss-watch precision-yes, Edinburgh literally sets its clocks by it...

Also, in the Crown Room, you will see Scotland’s royal bling-crown, scepter, and sword-resting under heavy guard. Period-costumed actors occasionally swoop in to re-enact history with full flair. And if you’re visiting in August, the Military Tattoo takes over the esplanade with kilts, cannons, and bagpipes galore.

Oh, and in the north-east corner of the esplanade, don't miss that rather unassuming little iron fountain. Called Witches' Well, it marks the spot where, back in the day, many women accused of witchcraft were burned at the stake. Spooky, grim, and sadly true...

The panoramic views are postcard-worthy, the historical nooks are endlessly fascinating, and honestly, it just feels epic to stand where centuries of royals, rebels, and rock-solid drama unfolded.

Pro Tips:
The entry is cheaper, and more importantly, faster, if you book online.
Take a free guided tour – running every hour. Otherwise, consider grabbing the £3 audio guide if you like facts with flair.
Being at the mountain's top, it may get breezy, so definitely bring a windproof jacket if visiting in cold weather.

Saint Mary’s Cathedral is located in Edinburgh’s New Town district and you shouldn't miss the opportunity to visit this fine church.

The building was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott in 1874 and is a wonderful example of Victorian Gothic architecture. The foundation stone was hollowed out and it contains a copy of the Trust Deed, Oliver and Boyd’s Almanac, coins, newspapers and an edition of the Post Office directory. The nave was opened in 1879 and the twin spires on the west end were added by Sir George’s grandson Charles in 1913.

The church complex comprises the Song School with its lovely murals of the Beneficiate by Phoebe Anna Traquair and the Chapter House which is open as a crèche on Sundays.

Inside the cathedral, you will find Sir Walter Scott’s pew, which was brought here in 2006 and memorials to the Soldiers of the Royal Scots Infantry killed overseas between 1857 and 1870. Other memorials are dedicated to important Scottish Generals.

The Lorimer Rood Cross over the nave altar was placed there in 1922; the reredos behind the High Altar represent Christ with the Saints Mary, Margaret, Columba and John.

You can also admire the Paolozzi window – one of the first stained-glass windows in Scotland. It caused a bit of a stir at the time, but as it represented scenes from the Ascension, it was allowed to remain in place. The most notable item in the church is Borthwick’s powerful painting “The Presence”.

Why You Should Visit:
This Cathedral is very much a working one and you can be treated to fantastic choral/organ music on most days.
Otherwise, of course, the architecture is a treat to watch – a must for anyone interested in the splendor of 19th-century houses of worship.

Dean Village, once a deep valley near Edinburgh's city center, thrived for over 800 years as a grain milling hub. It boasted up to eleven mills powered by the Water of Leith. This area was initially mentioned in a 1145 charter by King David I of Scotland, who granted a mill here to Holyrood Abbey.

Remaining distinct until the 1800s, Dean Village changed hands in 1826 when John Learmonth, future Edinburgh Lord Provost, bought it. The Dean Bridge, crucial for crossing the valley, was built in 1831-33 without a toll, as insisted by the Cramond Road Trustees and designed by Thomas Telford. This four-arch bridge, over 400 feet wide and 106 feet above the water, significantly improved access from the city.

In 1847, Dean House was demolished to create Dean Cemetery. This mansion, central to the Dean Estate since 1609, left its mark through sculptured stones in the cemetery's southern wall and ceiling panels in Scotland's National Museum. The cemetery is notable for housing prominent figures like Sir Thomas Bouch.

With the emergence of larger mills in Leith, Dean Village's prosperity declined, leading to decay and poverty until the 1960s. However, since the mid-1970s, it has been revitalized into a peaceful area near the city center, with renovated residential spaces and the Water of Leith Walkway established in 1983.

Dean Bridge also appears in Ian Rankin's "Strip Jack" and Peter May's "The Lewis Man," highlighting its cultural significance.