Funchal Introduction Walking Tour (Self Guided), Funchal

Dedicated in 1514, the Funchal Cathedral is one of the few buildings that have survived largely intact since the early colonization of Madeira. Its design follows the late Gothic style, with three naves supported by robust stone pillars. The structure was built using massive blocks of volcanic rock, giving the building its characteristic solidity. The facades are white, framed with dark stone corners, typical of Madeiran ecclesiastical architecture.

Inside, as you walk down the central nave toward the high altar, continue straight into the raised choir area. On both your right and left, you’ll see the 16th-century wooden choir stalls set against the walls, carved with prophets, disciples, and cherubs carrying fruit and wine. Another highlight is the large silver processional cross donated by King Manuel I kept in the Cathedral Treasury. To see it, turn to your right before leaving the church and follow the signs for the “Cathedral Treasury" or “Tesouro da Sé”, where the cross is displayed among the cathedral’s liturgical treasures.”

The cathedral itself was designed in the 1490s by architects Pêro Anes and Gil Enes. Construction progressed quickly: the main structure was completed by 1514, and the bell tower with its distinctive spire was finished by 1517. In its past, the cathedral had not fared well. The exterior volcanic tuff masonry suffered severe moisture damage, and the roof tiles leaked. Interior woodwork needed cleaning and repair. A comprehensive restoration began in 2000, and the cathedral was fully reopened to the public by 2014.

Outside, on the square directly in front of the cathedral’s main facade, stands a bronze statue of Pope John Paul II. As you exit the church, you’ll see it slightly to your left, raised on a stone pedestal overlooking the plaza. The statue commemorates the Pope’s visit to Madeira in 1991, when he celebrated Mass in Funchal and spoke about the island’s long Catholic heritage.

Municipal Square is a pedestrianized area paved with dark and light basalt and limestone tiles arranged in flowing wave patterns typical of Madeiran pavements. At its heart rises a tall fountain spire in a Portuguese architectural style from the early 1500s, set above a wide, overflowing basin that has become one of the square’s defining features. Although the inner area is reserved for pedestrians, traffic and parking are allowed around the perimeter, forming a ring road that frames the space.

This square is widely regarded as the most important public gathering place in Funchal. It is surrounded by some of the city’s finest historic buildings: the 18th-century Town Hall, the 17th-century Church of Saint John the Evangelist, the Museum of Sacred Art housed in the 16th-century Episcopal Palace, and the former Jesuits’ College, today serving as the rectory of the University of Madeira.

If you want to stop in a nearby restaurant, to feel the square vibe, Just behind the Museum of Sacred Art sits the popular Museum Cafe, known for its shaded patio and relaxed atmosphere. The square frequently serves as a ceremonial and cultural stage. Christmas illuminations, open-air concerts, civic celebrations, and public dances fill the space throughout the year.

The first Funchal town hall was built in 1486 on Duque Square. The town council moved several times afterward, finally settling in Cathedral Square in 1802. Still dissatisfied with the facilities, the council eventually purchased the Carvalhal Esmeraldo Palace in 1883, adjoining the present-day Municipal Square.

Francisco António Camara Leme built his home, the Carvalhal Esmeraldo Palace in 1758. Although the original structure dates from the mid-18th century, it was later remodeled by the renowned Portuguese architects Raul Lino and Carlos Ramos during intensive restoration works around 1940. Construction materials included masonry, stone, wood, cast iron, and decorative tiles.

As you approach the City Hall, pay attention to the impressive entrance doorway carved in gray stone. On the second floor, the reception area is lined with eleven windows, each with its own small balcony. The ground-floor windows retain 17th-century wrought-iron security gratings. From the entrance, an extravagant interior staircase leads to the central courtyard. Here visitors encounter the sculpture “Leda and the Swan”, created by Madeiran sculptor Germano José Salles. The sculpture depicts the myth in which Zeus, disguised as a swan, approaches Leda—an ancient legend long admired for its symbolism and dramatic narrative.

Doctor Fernão de Ornelas became mayor of Funchal in 1929. At just 27 years old, he was the youngest person ever to hold the office. He took over a city that had stagnated and set out to modernize its urban structure. During his tenure, he improved streets, reorganized commercial districts, and introduced significant reforms in education, sanitation, and overall civic planning, helping transform Funchal into a more functional and accessible city.

One of his most lasting contributions was the creation of new thoroughfares and the paving of older, uneven streets. Fernão Ornelas Street, named in his honor, was laid out under his administration as a key access route to the Workers’ Market—another major project he initiated. The street opened in the 1940s and quickly became one of the city’s busiest commercial corridors.

Today, Fernão Ornelas Street is known for its colorful shopfronts, traditional Madeiran tiles, and pedestrian-friendly layout. Next time you walk down the street towards the market, remember you’re literally walking through the mayor’s big urban experiment from the 1940s – and his statue is still here so check it out.

At the far end of Fernão Ornelas Street stands the Workers’ Market of Funchal, created in the late 1930s as part of a citywide modernization plan aimed at organizing food commerce and improving sanitary conditions. Designed by architect Edmundo Tavares and opened in 1940, the building reflects the Estado Novo political regime’s preference for strong geometric forms and practical public architecture. Its facade is lined with blue-and-white azulejo panels, illustrating scenes of Madeiran life and celebrating the island’s agricultural and fishing traditions.

As soon as you enter through the main Art Deco doorway, the flower hall is immediately on your left. This is where you’ll see rows of flower vendors, along with stalls selling seeds and bulbs—some in operation for more than fifty years. To continue into the market, walk straight ahead from the entrance and you will step into the central patio, where fruit and vegetable stands fill the open space. Small cafes, wine shops, and souvenir stalls line the perimeter on your right-hand side.

From the central patio, head straight across to the far end of the square. The Fish Hall is through the large doorway directly opposite the entrance. As you walk in, fishmongers line both the left and right sides, with long marble counters displaying black scabbardfish, tuna, octopus, and other local catches. The walls around you are decorated with tile illustrations of regional sea life.

To reach the upper level, turn right as you exit the Fish Hall and you’ll find the staircase leading to the second floor. Once upstairs, vendors selling exotic fruits, dried berries, spices, teas, and cork goods stretch out to your left and right along the balcony walkway. Keep walking to the far corner and you’ll reach the terrace, where two large cafes overlook the market. From here, you can look down into the central patio and even catch views of the surrounding rooftops.

The market neighborhood is always busy, but nothing compares to the night before Christmas Eve. This is when Market Night transforms the Workers’ Market into one of Funchal’s biggest street celebrations. Stalls spill into the streets, live music fills the air, people sing carols, and food and drink flow freely. It is one of Madeira’s most beloved traditions and a festive way to experience the island’s community spirit.

Santa Maria street lies in the parish of Santa Maria Maior, the very first district on the island of Madeira. The street itself dates back to the early settlement of Funchal and was originally little more than a stone path about 1,970 feet long running parallel to the shore. When the area was first settled, a small church known as Saint Mary of the Pebble stood nearby, and a rough square extended to the beach; from that the street gradually grew.

Today the street presents a lively mix of residential houses and commercial establishments. One of its most celebrated features is the series of painted doors on private houses: thanks to the “Art of Open Doors” initiative, more than 200 doors have been transformed into works of art by local and international artists. The result is that ordinary frontages become mini-canvases of color, making the street itself feel like an open-air gallery.

Along the street you’ll find the popular Mariazinha Bakery, offering cream cakes, fruit cakes, croissants, espresso and other tempting baked goods in a five-star cafe atmosphere. The street is also jammed with restaurants and cafe terraces, offering both traditional Madeiran menus and international dishes; there are bars serving poncha, a traditional Madeiran alcoholic drink, and venues where you might hear traditional music.

There was a time when Portugal dominated the commercial routes of the North Atlantic, and the safety of Funchal seemed assured. Who would want to attack an isolated island in the mid-ocean? Someone did. In 1566, French corsairs under aristocrate Bertrand de Montluc ravaged the undefended port for several days, looting churches, burning homes, and killing many residents. The danger was real and recurring, yet Funchal was not fortified until 1614, decades after the attack.

Construction of the fortress began under the direction of master builder Jerónimo Jorge, the royal engineer responsible for several military projects in Madeira. The work was continued later by his son, Bartolomeu João, and by the Italian-born engineer Tossi Columbano, who also contributed to the development of the Port of Funchal. By the mid-18th century, the fort’s main defensive structures were considered complete, including the thick walls, battlements, and sea-facing gun platforms.

As pirate and privateer activity diminished, the fort took on new roles. It served as a base for British troops during the Peninsular War in the early 19th century, when Portugal and Britain were allied against Napoleonic France. Later, the military police and the Funchal Lancers were quartered within its walls. In 1803, after catastrophic floods swept through Funchal, the fort provided emergency shelter for hundreds of displaced families. Its role shifted again in 1901, when King Carlos I and Queen Amélie visited Madeira and were formally received here, taking lunch under a tent in the courtyard.

Today, Saint James Fort is open to visitors and remains one of Funchal’s most recognizable historical landmarks. Travelers can walk freely into the courtyard, explore the ramparts overlooking the Atlantic, and view small military displays inside the former barracks. Parts of the interior host rotating cultural exhibitions, and the seaside terrace—now occupied by a restaurant—offers some of the best panoramic views along Madeira’s coast.

The Funchal–Monte Cable Car offers one of Madeira’s most memorable experiences, gliding from the edge of Funchal’s old town up to the hillside village of Monte. Inaugurated in 2000, this modern gondola lift travels along a 3,200-meter cable line with a vertical rise of around 560 meters. The ride takes about fifteen minutes each way, carrying up to six passengers per cabin. The views unfold dramatically—the harbor, the city’s red rooftops, and the blue Atlantic opening out beneath you.

The cabins are comfortable and fitted with large, clear windows that offer panoramas over gardens, ravines, homes, and terraced hillsides. The ascent feels smooth rather than frightening, making it appealing even to those unsure about heights. Midway along the route, the landscape becomes greener and more rural until the line reaches its upper station, positioned between Babosas Village and the Mount Garden.

Stepping out at the top, visitors find themselves in Monte, a quieter, cooler village first established in 1565 as the parish of Our Lady of the Mount. Its leafy gardens, narrow lanes, small cafes, and scenic viewpoints offer a gentler pace compared to downtown Funchal. From here, travelers can explore nearby gardens, enjoy refreshments in Babosas Village or continue their visit to the Church of Our Lady of the Monte.

When it is time to return, there are two options. One is simply to board the cable car for a glide back down to the city. The other is the island’s famous traditional wicker-basket toboggan ride: a hand-guided descent on wooden runners, steered by two drivers who expertly guide passengers down the winding streets toward Funchal. Safe, lively, and entirely unique to Madeira, it provides a playful contrast to the calm, scenic ascent by cable car.

Sea Avenue is Funchal’s main seafront artery, running for about 4,270 feet along the southern edge of the historic center. Lined with palm trees, gardens, and wide pavements, it links the marina in the west to Admiral Reis Garden and the old town in the east. The avenue in its modern form dates from 1939 but follows the line of the early waterfront road; in the 1980s its name was extended to honor Madeirans who emigrated overseas by sea.

On the shore side, you cross the landscaped People’s Square, a modern waterfront park created on reclaimed land, with lawns, paths, kiosks, and open views of the harbor and cruise ships. On the city side you see a row of important public buildings: the Port Captain’s Office and the regional headquarters of the national guard, followed further along by the Legislative Assembly of Madeira and statues such as the Monument to the Madeiran Emigrant.

If you head west, with the sea on your left, the shore side opens onto Funchal Marina, lined with yachts and tour boats. On the city side you pass the reconstructed Varadouros Gate, recalling the old city walls, and then the fortified Saint Lawrence Palace and other historic facades that overlook the avenue. Near the western end, the road curves by the CR7 Museum, celebrating Cristiano Ronaldo with a bronze statue.