Turkish Old Town Walking Tour (Self Guided), Nicosia

Nicosia wasn't always Nicosia. It was originally called Leukosia. In Greek mythology Leukosia was a siren, a daughter of Achelous, a river god, and Melpomene, Muse of Tragedy. They had several daughters, Leukosia was one.

Others say the first settlers were Achaean veterans of the Trojan War. They appeared on the plain of Mesaoria by the river Pedieos in 2,500 BC. They formed the city state, Ledra. Traces of Ledra have been found on the hill Ayia Paraskevi, south of the town.

In 965 the Byzantines chose Leukosia to be the official capital of Cyprus. In 1188 Richard I besieged Leukosia. He conquered, then sold the island to the Knights Templar. Frankish rule in Cyprus ran until 1489. The Lusignan kings built the city walls, palaces and churches, including St. Sophia Cathedral.

The Lusignians could not pronounce the name Leukosia. They managed "Nicosie." From there it was a rose by any other name, so to speak. In 1489 the Venetians came to call and stayed. They busied themselves fortifying the island against the Ottoman threat.

The new walls were star-shaped with eleven bastions. There were three gates, Kyrenia, Paphos and Famagusta. The river Pedieos was diverted to form a moat. All to no avail. In 1570 Ottomans devastated the city and converted churches and some public buildings into mosques.

British rule came in 1878. In 1955 a rebellion attempted to unite the island with Greece. In 1960 Nicosia became the capital of the independent Republic of Cyprus. Civil strife resulted in a Turkish invasion in 1974 followed by a partitioning of the island.

A Green Line divides the old city of Nicosia into two. North of the green line lies the Turkish old town where the city mosques, baths and markets are mostly converted from Byzantine, Venetian and Lusignan structures. St. Sophia's Cathedral is now the Selimiye Mosque.

Narrow pedestrianized market streets wind their way through the Turkish old town. There are secret gardens and hamams, ancient bath houses, some open to the public. The graceful minarets call to prayer. The east and west meet in Nicosia, reconciled once more.