City of London Walking Tour (Self Guided), London

For centuries, this iconic structure has symbolized London's enduring spirit of survival and rejuvenation, captivating visitors both inside and outside its grand walls. Sir Christopher Wren embarked on the design of the present-day cathedral in 1666, immediately following the destruction of the prior medieval building, founded in 1087, during the Great Fire. This historical context is evident in the inscription "resurgam" ("I shall rise again") on the pediment of the south entrance. Saint Paul's Cathedral once more became a symbol of the city's resilience during the Blitz, as local volunteers bravely fought to extinguish a fire on the dome (though despite their efforts, a significant portion of the building's eastern end and its high altar were lost). It has frequently served as the backdrop for momentous state events, including Winston Churchill's funeral and the wedding of Prince Charles and Princess Diana.

Construction commenced in 1675 and took 35 years to complete. Interestingly, this was Wren's third architectural proposal: the initial design was rejected for being too modern, while the second was deemed too modern and too influenced by Italian (Catholic) architecture. The "Great Model" of this second design, a 20-foot representation, can be seen in the crypt. In a compromise with the Anglican clergy, Wren included a traditional English spire but ultimately installed a neoclassical triple-layered dome, the second-largest cathedral dome globally after Saint Peter's in Rome.

The cathedral's interior showcases a remarkable example of English Baroque design. Ascend 257 steps up the meticulously engineered Geometric Staircase, a stone spiral marvel, to reach the Whispering Gallery, named so because a whisper against one wall can be heard clearly on the wall 112 feet away. Another 119 steps lead to the Stone Gallery, encircling the dome's exterior and offering panoramic views of London. For those with a head for heights, an additional 152 steps lead to the small Golden Gallery, an observation deck at the dome's zenith. At 278 feet above the cathedral floor, it presents even more breathtaking vistas.

Descending to ground level, in the south choir aisle, rests the grave of John Donne, the poet who served as dean of Saint Paul's from 1621 until his passing in 1631. His marble effigy stands as the cathedral's oldest surviving memorial and one of the few to endure the Great Fire. The intricately carved figures on the nearby choir stall are the creations of master carver Grinling Gibbons, who also adorned Wren's great organ. Behind the high altar lies the American Memorial Chapel, dedicated to the 28,000 American GIs stationed in the UK during the Second World War. Notable figures interred in the crypt include the Duke of Wellington, Admiral Lord Nelson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Henry Moore, and Wren himself. Aptly, the Latin epitaph above Wren's tomb reads, "Reader, if you seek his monument, look around you."

***CHARLES DICKENS TOUR***
Saint Paul's serves as a prominent backdrop in many of Dickens' novels. In "Master Humphrey’s Clock", for instance, he portrays Master Humphrey ascending to the summit of the cathedral, then the tallest structure in London, to relish the sweeping panorama of the city. He writes, "Draw but a little circle above the clustering house tops, and you shall have within its space, everything with its opposite extreme and contradiction, close beside." Another Dickens work, "David Copperfield", takes Peggotty to the top of Saint Paul's to savor the impressive views over London, a practice that visitors continue to enjoy to this day.

The vicinity surrounding this iconic cathedral was intimately known to Dickens, and he frequently visited for various reasons, including attendance at significant public events such as the Duke of Wellington's funeral in 1852.

***SHAKESPEARE WALK***
The medieval St Paul’s Cathedral, predecessor of Sir Christopher Wren’s landmark dome design, was one of the largest European churches of its time, whose spire dominated the skyline of London until it burned down in the Great Fire of 1666. During Shakespeare’s lifetime, the area around St Paul’s was very different to what it is today.

Apart from being the centre of religious, political, cultural and social life in the city, the Cathedral was also the heart of London’s book trade and its environment was quite important in shaping the literary works of that period. By 1600, Shakespeare was the most published professional dramatist, and the first editions of his plays including Titus Andronicus, Richard II, Richard III, 1 Henry IV, 2 Henry IV, Much Ado About Nothing, and The Merchant of Venice were all bought and sold in St Paul’s Churchyard. It is also very likely that Shakespeare himself scouted the local bookshops for content that would furnish him with source material for his own work. In large part, the environment of St Paul’s shaped Shakespeare’s writing and influenced its survival and reception.

***HARRY POTTER MOVIE***
Other than architecture and history buffs, nowadays Harry Potter fans also have their reason to visit Saint Paul's. The focal point of their interest lies is the spectacular spiral Geometric Staircase (also referred to as the Dean's Stair) that creates the illusion of floating out from the walls of the Cathedral's South West Bell Tower. Recognizable from "Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban", this winding staircase served as the pathway for students ascending the stone steps on their way to Professor Trelawney's Divination classes, which were held in a classroom situated atop one of Hogwarts' North Towers. Additionally, the same staircase was featured in "Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire" as the Turris Magnus staircase. To catch a glimpse, you'll need to enter the Cathedral with a visitor ticket.

Why You Should Visit:
An architectural marvel and an iconic representation of London.
There's a wealth of exploration to be had, whether you venture above ground or into the crypt.

Tip:
Entrance to this cathedral requires a fee. Opt for online ticket purchase to streamline your visit and save time.
Additionally, you have the option to purchase an audio tour at the entrance.

Opening Hours:
Mon, Tue, Thu-Sat: 8:30am–4:30pm; Wed: 10am–4:30pm; Sun: 8am–6pm

This thoroughfare served as the primary east-west street in 16th-century London when the city had a population of approximately 200,000 inhabitants. The expansive street was home to The City's marketplace, and this is reflected in the names of the streets that radiate from it, such as Poultry, Honey Lane, Milk Street, and Bread Street.

In the 19th century, Cheapside remained a bustling shopping district and played a prominent role in English literature, frequently appearing in Dickens's works. In "Great Expectations", Pip described the nearby street market of Cheapside as "all asmear with filth and fat and blood ... the great black dome of Saint Paul's bulging at me."

Charles Dickens, Jr. penned in his 1879 book "Dickens's Dictionary of London": "Cheapside remains now what it was five centuries ago, the greatest thoroughfare in the City of London. Other localities have had their day, have risen, become fashionable, and have sunk into obscurity and neglect, but Cheapside has maintained its place, and may boast of being the busiest thoroughfare in the world, with the sole exception perhaps of London-bridge."

In the contemporary landscape, Cheapside retains its status as a vibrant retail hub widely known for its diverse array of outlets and offices. The area also features The City's lone major shopping center, One New Change (at the Saint Paul's Cathedral end), with restrooms and a glass elevator leading to a rooftop terrace offering panoramic views of Saint Paul's and the London cityscape.

Excavate beneath the streets of London, and you'll uncover layers of Roman, Saxon, and Medieval remnants. This locale has served as a gathering point since the days of ancient Rome (take note of the circular trace of the former Roman amphitheater on the square). During medieval times, it served as the meeting place for various guilds, a tradition that endures with approximately 100 professional associations congregating here today.

The venerable hall, which miraculously has withstood both the Great Fire of 1666 and the bombings of World War II, can trace its origins back to the 15th century, making it a precious relic of civil architecture from the Middle Ages that still stands. Adjacent to this historic hall is the Guildhall Art Gallery, offering free admission and a fascinating glimpse into the social fabric of old London through a collection primarily consisting of Victorian paintings depicting various scenes from the city's past. This gallery houses one of London's finest Victorian art collections, thoughtfully arranged into thematic categories such as home, beauty, faith, leisure, work, love, and imagination. Additionally, it showcases enchanting Pre-Raphaelite artworks. In the gallery's basement, you'll find a meticulously curated exhibition dedicated to the aforementioned Roman amphitheater unearthed during a construction project in 1988.

Opening Hours:
[Guildhall Art Gallery] Daily 10:30am–4pm

Since its establishment in 1694 as the central bank of England, the role of the institution famously known as the "Old Lady of Threadneedle Street" (a nickname derived from a political cartoon) has evolved significantly. It now encompasses various responsibilities such as overseeing foreign exchanges, issuing currency, safeguarding the nation's gold reserves, and supervising the United Kingdom's banking system. Since 1997, it has also been entrusted with the operational management of Britain's monetary policy, most notably in the context of setting interest rates, similar to the role played by the Federal Reserve in the United States.

The institution's premises occupy a three-acre area enclosed by a massive Neoclassical curtain wall, originally designed by Sir John Soane in 1828. Interestingly, this windowless outer wall is the sole remaining structure from Soane's original bank building, which was demolished in 1925. If you wish to delve deeper into the bank's history, the Bank of England Museum, conveniently located around the corner on Bartholomew Lane, offers a surprisingly diverse range of exhibits. Alongside the bank's original Royal Charter, the museum hosts a dynamic program of special exhibitions and interactive displays, allowing visitors to even try their hand at understanding the control of inflation. One of the museum's most popular attractions is a solid-gold bar on display in the central trading hall, which visitors can actually hold, although it's important to note that stringent security measures are in place.

Opening Hours:
[Bank of England Museum] Mon-Fri: 10am–5pm

Easily the most impressive and refined among the Bank's structures is the Royal Exchange, originally constructed in 1570 through the lavish financial support of the extraordinarily wealthy businessman, Thomas Gresham (notice his gilded grasshopper adorning the rooftop). During that era, the term "stock" referred to goods that could be loaded onto or unloaded from ships on the Thames. Over time, Londoners began to assemble here, transitioning from trading live goats and chickens to exchanging slips of paper representing "futures." As trading grew, so did the need for money changers and subsequently, bankers, leading to the flourishing of London's financial district.

The present-day structure, featuring an imposing eight-column portico and convenient steps for the lunchtime crowd, is the third building to occupy this historic site and was constructed in the 1840s. Today, the Royal Exchange is home to upscale shops catering to those with expense accounts. Nevertheless, it's still worth taking a look inside the inner courtyard, which boasts a beautifully tiled floor, a glazed roof, and half-columns designed in three classical orders. The stylish Fortnum's Bar and Restaurant occupies both the courtyard and the mezzanine level, offering a vantage point to admire a series of frescoes depicting the City's history.

Opening Hours:
Mon-Fri: 7:30am–10pm

Mansion House, the opulent neoclassical residence of the Lord Mayor during their term in office, is open to the public once a week, but access is available solely through guided tours (lasting approximately 1 hour) with no prior booking required. Designed in 1753 by the architect George Dance the Elder, the most splendid room within the building is the Egyptian Hall, characterized by its impressive columns and a soaring barrel-vaulted ceiling adorned with coffered designs.

Another noteworthy aspect of Mansion House is its extensive collection of gold and silver tableware, including the Mayor's remarkable 36-pound gold mace and the pearl sword gifted by Queen Elizabeth I, traditionally presented to the sovereign during visits to the City. As you explore the rooms, you'll encounter a remarkable assortment of Dutch and Flemish paintings by renowned artists such as Hals, Ruisdael, Hobbema, Cuyp and de Hooch.

Tour spots are assigned on a first-come, first-served basis, so it's advisable to arrive promptly at the Walbrook entrance.

Tip:
After your visit, consider taking a stroll down Cornhill, keeping the Royal Exchange on your left. Along the way, you'll come across a monument dedicated to James Henry Greathead, the 19th-century engineer whose inventions, including the "traveling shield," played a pivotal role in making the construction of the Tube possible. A few blocks further down at Cornhill #50 on the right, you can also drop by The Counting House pub, originally built as a bank in 1893 and a popular lunch spot in the area.

The parish church of the Lord Mayor, designed by architect Christopher Wren between 1672 and 1679, is widely regarded as the most exceptional among his City churches. Notably, its intricately coffered dome, adorned with elaborate plasterwork, served as an early precursor to the grandeur of Saint Paul's Cathedral.

Upon entering Saint Stephen's, visitors are often taken aback by its airy, columned interior, which contrasts starkly with its unassuming exterior. The font cover and pulpit canopy are adorned with exquisitely carved figures, offering a striking juxtaposition to the minimalist design of Henry Moore's substantial white stone altar, installed in 1987 but originally from 1972.

Yet, perhaps the most poignant memorial within the church is an enclosed telephone in a glass case, which serves as a tribute to Rector Chad Varah, who, in 1953, established the Samaritans, a helpline staffed by volunteers offering support to those in emotional distress.

Additionally, the church is home to the London Internet Church, a community that gathers individuals from around the globe for worship and discussions on Christianity. Saint Stephen's hosts a bustling schedule of free musical events, including Tuesday lunchtime concerts at 1pm and Friday organ recitals at 12:30pm, where visitors are encouraged to bring and enjoy a packed lunch.

Opening Hours:
Tue: 10:30am–3:30pm; Wed: 10:30am–3pm; Thu-Fri: 9am–3:30pm

The mysterious London Stone until recently was ensconced at 111 Cannon Street. It is a large block of limestone thought to have been brought from Bath in Roman times.

John Stow, an early London historian, mentions the stone in his Survey of London in 1598. He claimed a list of properties containing the location of the stone was given by King Aethelstan to Canterbury Cathedral in the tenth century.

London Stone was a famous landmark in 1450 when Jack Cade led his rebellion against Henry VI. Cade struck the stone with his sword and declared himself "Lord of this City." Smacking the stone was easier than smacking the King. Cade's rebellion and Cade himself were swiftly quashed.

There are myths. It has been called a "Druidic" marker for some ancient rites or a Roman milestone. William Blake wrote, "In offerings of Human life...They groan'd aloud on London Stone..." Another myth claims medieval kings would smite the stone to announce their control. This did not work well for Jack Cade and the kings made no comment.

One myth maintained that if the stone were moved, disaster would follow. Well, the stone was moved several times. In 1742 it was established beside Saint Swithin's Church. In 1940, the church was destroyed in the Blitz and replaced by an office building at 111 Cannon Street. This building was demolished in 2016 to be replaced by yet another building and the stone was moved to the Museum of London. In 2018, the new building being up, the stone was moved again back to 111 Cannon Street. No further moves are planned. The mystery prevails.

Originally the location of Londinium's Roman Forum, this place has accommodated two millennia of trade. Its name was derived from the innovative lead roof of the medieval market hall. The present-day hall, a classic Victorian structure from the 19th century, complete with its charming iron meat hooks, serves as a retreat for office workers. In this 21st-century era of towering skyscrapers, it survives solely due to government protection. While exploring this area, you'll encounter pubs, stores, and even a traditional shoeshine station, making it a truly enchanting destination for shopping.

***HARRY POTTER MOVIE***
The contrast between the ancient market and the modern high-rises is believed to have sparked J. K. Rowling's inspiration for creating Diagon Alley, the shopping hub of the wizarding world where Hogwarts students stock up on school supplies like spell books and wands. Harry and Hagrid pass through the market on their way to the Leaky Cauldron, which holds a sneaky entrance to the alley.

In both "Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone" and "Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire," an unoccupied storefront at 42 Bull's Head Passage (in Leadenhall Market) served as the entrance to the Leaky Cauldron. The shop was vacant at the time, allowing filmmakers to paint it black and install a Leaky Cauldron sign for the scene. Its distinctive rounded blue doorway is now instantly recognizable to Harry Potter enthusiasts. Today, the shop is home to Glass House Opticians, so you might even chance upon Mad-Eye Moody here, getting fitted for a contact lens with a bit of luck...

Sky Garden is located atop a lopsided skyscraper on 20 Fenchurch Street in London. It is nicknamed "Walkie-Talkie" by locals because of its odd radio handset shape. The top three floors are given over to the actual "Sky Garden."

The garden is made up of semitropical trees and succulent plants that form a kind of fringe around the bar, restaurants and broad walking areas scaling the 35th, 36th and 37th floors. The floors are open to the public but they are often crowded. Because only two lifts are available, access in or out is frequently slow.

Free access is provided in 90-minute shifts until six pm. After six only paying visitors are admitted.

The real draw of the sky garden is the 360-degree views of the city of London. There are observation decks and an open-air terrace.

The garden was designed by Gillespies, landscape Architects. The terraces are planted with different types of drought-resistant Mediterranean and South African plant species. Plantings bloom throughout the year. Flowering plants include African Lily, Red Hot Poker and Bird of Paradise among aromatic herbs, especially French Lavender.

The Sky Garden building at 20 Fenchurch Street was designed in 2004 by the famous Uruguayan architect Ra Vinoly. Reservations are recommended for busy times at the garden.

The Monument to the Great Fire of London, more commonly known simply as the Monument, is a Doric column in London, situated near the northern end of London Bridge. Commemorating the Great Fire of London, it stands at the junction of Monument Street and Fish Street Hill, 202 feet (62 m) in height and 202 feet west of the spot in Pudding Lane where the Great Fire started on 2 September 1666.

Constructed between 1671 and 1677, it was built on the site of St. Margaret's, Fish Street, the first church to be destroyed by the Great Fire. Another monument, the Golden Boy of Pye Corner, marks the point near Smithfield where the fire was stopped.

The top of the Monument is reached by a narrow winding staircase of 311 steps. The view from the top is incredible, but the climb may not be easy for some people.

For nearly as long as the city of London has existed, a bridge has stood at this very location. The inaugural bridge was constructed over 2,000 years ago, and successive bridges were erected during the Roman era, William the Conqueror's reign, and King John's rule.

In the year 1014, the Danes held control of London, prompting King Ethelred the Unready, a Saxon monarch, to join forces with a Viking raiding party led by King Olaf of Norway in a bid to reclaim the English throne. They navigated up the Thames, fastened their boats to the wooden bridge supports, and, as the tide carried them away, pulled down the bridge behind them, giving rise to the famous chant, 'London Bridge is Falling Down'.

During the Tudor era, about 600 structures lined the bridge, some soaring to heights of over six stories. It was so densely populated that it became its own city ward. The heads of traitors were a gruesome sight, impaled on the poles of the bridge's gatehouse. However, as automobiles became widespread, and traffic continued to surge, the bridge began to sink at one end in the 1960s. The structure was acquired for £1 million (equivalent to $2.4 million at the time) by the McCulloch Oil Corporation, which then transported the bridge across the Atlantic and reassembled it, piece by piece, over Lake Havasu in Arizona, where it stands today.

The current London Bridge, completed in 1973, comprises three spans of pre-stressed concrete cantilevers and is rather minimalist in appearance, featuring only granite obelisks on the pier faces and polished granite cladding on the parapet walls.

Each autumn, on one Sunday, vehicle traffic yields to a unique tradition known as the Sheep Drive by the Freemen of the City of London, a practice dating back to the 12th century, where sheep replace vehicles on the bridge for the day.

If you would like to see a fine example of a 12th century church, then you shouldn’t miss visiting St Mary-at-Hill in the Billingsgate Ward.

This church was built in the 12th century and called “St Mary de Hull”, later changed to the name it bears today after the Norman influence on the language waned. It isn’t a very large church, being 96ft long and 60ft wide, but it represents one of the oldest buildings in the capital.

The church was damaged during the Great Fire of London in 1666, but Sir Christopher Wren was able to rebuild it, replacing only the east end and the interior. The three other walls and the west tower were undamaged. The interior has four free-standing Corinthian columns that support the barrel-vaulted ceiling which has a Greek cross pattern and a coffered dome in the centre.

In 1787 the west wall was rebuilt and the tower was replaced rebuilt in brick. In 1826 arched iron-framed windows were installed in the north wall. A cupola was added to the dome and windows were set into the chancel vault in 1848.

Sadly a fire in 1988 caused a great deal of damage, and although the roof and ceiling were rebuilt, the woodwork which included the ancient pews and the pulpit were not replaced. Every year the October Festival of the Sea is held in the church – a Harvest Festival with fish and sea food instead of fruit and vegetables – and in June music recitals are given on St Botolph’s Day.

All Hallows-by-the-Tower, also previously dedicated to St Mary the Virgin, is an ancient Anglican church located in Byward Street in the City of London, overlooking the Tower of London. Founded in 675, it is one of the oldest churches in London, and contains inside a 7th-century Anglo-Saxon arch with recycled Roman tiles, the oldest surviving piece of church fabric in the city.

All Hallows-by-the-Tower was first established by the Anglo-Saxon Abbey at Barking and was for many years named after the abbey, as All Hallows Barking. The church was built on the site of a former Roman building, traces of which have been discovered in the crypt. It was expanded and rebuilt several times between the 11th and 15th centuries. Its proximity to the Tower of London meant that it acquired royal connections, with Edward IV making one of its chapels a royal chantry and the beheaded victims of Tower executions being sent for temporary burial at All Hallows.

In 1066, shortly after his victory over Harold at Hastings, William the Conqueror began construction of his White Tower. The fortress was strategically placed at a bend in the river Thames, perfect for defense of the river and the city. Its presence was considered a symbol of oppression by common folk. Until 1952 the tower was also used as a prison.

Basically, the Tower is a compound within two rings of walls and a moat. During the reigns of Richard I, Henry III, and Edward I significant expansion occurred. Despite these changes, the general layout of the fortress is roughly the same as it was in the 13th century.

The Tower has been a Royal residence, an armory, a treasury, a menagerie, a mint, a public record archive and the Crown Jewels of England depository. Until the reign of Charles II in the 17th century, coronation processions were made between the Tower and Westminster Abbey. When the monarch was absent the Constable of the Tower ran the show.

The Tower has a reputation for torture and death, but executions were mostly held on Tower Hill, outside the castle. In 400 years a mere 112 offenders faced the block. This was cold comfort to unlucky prisoners. The last prisoners held in the tower were the infamous Kray twins, in 1952.

The castle is made up of three enclosures called "wards." The inmost ward holds the White Tower, the donjon, or keep of the castle. Enclosing the Tower on three sides is the inner ward, built in the reign of Richard I in the late 12th century. The outer ward encircling the castle was built by Edward I in 1285.

The White Tower measures 118 by 105 feet. The battlements are as high as 90 feet. It has three floors. Each floor had three rooms, a large room and a smaller room and a chapel.

The Tower is presently home for the headquarters of the Royal Regiment of Fusiliers. The Yeomen Warders ("Beefeaters") take part in the ceremony of the keys each day. The Honourable Artillery Company fires gun salutes during the year. They fire 62 rounds for Royal events and 41 rounds for lesser occasions.

Six ravens with clipped wings are kept at the Tower at all times lest the kingdom fall. So far this strategy seems to be working.

Tip:
Buy your ticket(s) online and in advance, then print out and skip most of the lines to enter by following the signs for ticket holders.
Join one of the free Beefeater guided tours, lasting some 45 min. These are informative and will give you a good appreciation of the Tower's history. Make sure you walk all round the Tower, as there are fascinating exhibitions in lots of places you may not notice.

Opening Hours:
Sun-Mon: 10am-4:30pm; Tue-Sat: 9am-4:30pm

Tower Bridge, surprisingly, only opened its iconic spans in 1894, a fact that often astonishes both tourists and Londoners. Nevertheless, this relatively brief history hasn't stopped it from becoming an iconic symbol of London and the Victorian Era.

Interestingly, Queen Victoria initially harbored reservations about Tower Bridge. Her concern revolved around potential security compromises for the Tower of London, which was serving as an armory during that period. Despite her reservations, the bridge was originally adorned in Queen Victoria's favored hue: Chocolate Brown.

Sophisticated steam-powered engines orchestrate the bridge's ascent and descent, enabling the passage of tall-masted ships through its span. In its inaugural year, Tower Bridge was raised an impressive 6,160 times, and to this day, it continues to open approximately 1,000 times annually. Remarkably, despite this extensive operation, there have been no major accidents. If you happen to be fortunate, you might witness the bridge's operation as it swings open to allow barges and ships to navigate through.

For a memorable experience, take in the panoramic views of the bridge, the river, City Hall (the distinct egg-shaped glass building on the opposite bank), the Shard (London's striking architectural statement), and the vibrant cityscape. Alternatively, consider purchasing tickets that include elevator access to and from the top of the bridge. From there, you can enjoy unobstructed vistas of the east and west banks of the Thames River, complete with a captivating glass floor on the elevated walkways. Visitors also have the opportunity to explore the original steam engines that were once responsible for raising and lowering the two bascules—a genuinely captivating and informative experience. To top it off, there are convenient restroom facilities at the top for added convenience.

Why You Should Visit:
Unique and majestic structure; amazing to see especially at night!

Opening Hours:
Daily: 9:30am–6pm (last entry: 5pm)