Galleries and Museums, Lima, Peru (A)

This odd museum is located at the Plaza de Acho, which is Lima’s primary bullfighting ring, and focuses upon the role of bullfighting in Peruvian culture. Built in 1766, this ring was the first in the Spanish New World, and was once the largest such ring in the world. Regardless how one might feel about the morality of bullfighting as a sport, the museum is interesting – full of thematic artworks by Picasso and others, as well as various artifacts (like a blood-soaked costume – complete with gore-holes – worn by a matador killed by a bull). Other artifacts include ornate costumes, weaponry, and engravings.

This museum and park sits just a couple of blocks northeast of the Plaza de Armas in central Lima. Stretching along the Rio Rimac, the park consists of the remains of 300 meters of 17th century “muralla” (city walls) that once protected the city center from pirates. The wall was built under the direction of Viceroy Melchor de Navarra between 1684 and 1687. Excavation of the walls unearthed numerous artifacts, which are on display in the in-park museum. Focusing on the entire history of Lima, the museum contains exhibits including ceramics, building materials, and artworks. The surrounding park has become a site to host municipal festivals and events, and there is an onsite restaurant, as well.

Next to the Plaza Bolivar, this museum is housed in a building rife with morbid and fascinating history. Between 1570 and 1820, the building was used by the Spanish Inquisition to imprison and torture captives. The basement – where most of the torture occurred – has disturbing displays of waxwork figures being stretched on racks, having feet burned, and enduring numerous other inhumanities. After this violent period – and before it became a museum – this building also became the senate building. A university library is upstairs, and tours of the museum begin very often in a number of languages – including Spanish, English, Portuguese, French, and Italian.

Opened in 2004 and housed in the Central Reserve Bank of Peru, this museum’s focus is upon pre-Columbian archaeology and Peruvian art from the 19th and 20th centuries. The permanent exhibits include artworks by Jose Gil de Castro, Pancho Fierro, Ignacio Merino, and Francisco Laso. The pre-Columbian exhibit includes art and artifacts from cultures such as the Chavin, Paracas, Mochica, Nazca and Inca – and date back as far as 1500 BC. Temporary exhibits have included works using silver in masks, musical instruments, crowns, etc. A collection of historic Peruvian currency is also on display, with coins dating back to the 16th century, as well as the bank’s old high-security vault.

Located just a couple of blocks northwest of the Plaza de Armas in central Lima, this patriotic museum commemorates the soldiers who fought in defense of the Morro de Arica against Chilean forces in 1880. The museum is housed in a mansion that was the birthplace of Colonel Francisco Bolognesi Cervantes, Grand Marshal of Peru, and was opened in 1975. The exhibits consist of paintings depicting the war and combatants, as well as artifacts like weapons, uniforms, documents, furniture, etc. Many of the rooms are dedicated to specific individual soldiers, while others commemorate entire military units involved in the dispute over the port of Arica – which was won by Chile and remains part of northern Chile today.

This interesting museum was opened by the Castillo family and named in memory of the founders’ son, Andres del Castillo (1985-2006) – a student of Mining Engineering. Housed in the colonial-era Casa Belen, the museum consists of exhibits in Peruvian mining, Chancay ceramics, and ancient clothing – as well as an exhibit presenting the history of Casa Belen itself as far back as 1606. For rock hounds, the minerals in the mining exhibits are fascinating – especially the ornate crystals. For historians, the exhibits on the Chancay – with artifacts dating back as far as 900 AD – and textiles are wonderful. The mansion is beautiful, and the museum is well lit, well organized, and informative.

Founded in 1921, this museum is housed in an Italian Renaissance-style building designed by the Milan architect Gaetano Moretti in the Parque de la Cultura on land donated by Lima’s Italian community to celebrate the centennial anniversary of the city. The artistic focus of this museum is Italian and European art, primarily from the early 20th century. The elaborate façade pays tribute to Italian cities and historical events in Venetian mosaics, and the incredible wrought-iron door was created by Alessandro Mazzucotelli. The Museo de Arte Italiano is open Monday through Friday from 10am to 5pm, and also contains a large art library.

Located in an ornate building that was designed by Alexandre Eiffel within central Lima’s Parque de la Cultura, the city’s primary art museum houses a large collection of artwork spanning about 3000 years of history, as well as colonial furniture, pre-Columbian artifacts, and pottery. Exhibit art themes include “3000 years of art in Peru”, pre-Columbian, colonial (especially the Cusquena school), Republican-era, contemporary, and avant-garde. With over 7000 exhibits, the museum is enormous – with an onsite filmoteca showing films most evenings, as well as a gift shop and coffee shop. This museum is closed on Mondays – but open 10am until 8pm on Tuesday through Sunday (except Saturday, when it closes at 5pm). To end this tour, simply take a bus or taxi northbound for central Lima’s Plaza de Armas, or southbound to Miraflores.